Tricia Carey: The financial burden should not lie with the supply chain
Lenzing Fibre’s director of global business development explains how Carved in Blue has grown beyond a blog to become a tool for connecting the industry during the pandemic, and expresses how there needs to be a shared distribution of responsibility and profits when it comes to tackling fashion’s burden on the planet.
Carved in Blue has brought industry together, even more visibly since the start of the pandemic, connecting people through webinars and sharing ideas. How do you see its role, and can you tell us about any upcoming projects?
We started Carved in Blue almost five years ago and never thought it would be as robust as it is today with content, videos and social engagement. Then March 2020 hit and we realised we have an excellent platform to stay connected with the denim industry and lead discussions on the evolution. We have hosted more than 20 Denim Think Tank webinars since March to keep the global denim industry linked and forging ahead. In August, Carved in Blue was recognised beyond the denim industry as the Best Content Specific Blog awarded by Content Marketing Institute.
Some of our upcoming projects include expansion of our BLUE LENZ YouTube channel, addition of downloadable presentations, more slideshows, and perhaps even a podcast for 2021. We are inspired by our followers’ terrific feedback.
What part of your job do you enjoy most?
There are many aspects to my role that I enjoy including the heritage of denim and the amazing community. I started working with Tencel Lyocell in 1998 when it was still quite new in the market. Watching the expansion of Tencel fibres, with new brands and applications, has been very rewarding over the past two decades. What strikes me the most about my role is the opportunity for collaborations. Connecting like-minded people through programmes, projects or even conversations on Carved in Blue is enjoyable for me. In our digital world, it is all too easy to forget that we are in a people business.
Some designers and brands are suggesting they would like to move away from using polyester. How do cellulosic fibres offer an alternative, in terms of the performance and sustainability story?
Wood-based cellulosic fibres bring the best of nature combined with the science of technology. We can engineer our fibres to have traceability, circularity or even colour, as well as alter the diameter and length to enhance blending with other fibres. here are also application innovations to combine technologies and enhance performance. Now we even have the ability to make Tence lyocell as a filament, which we call Tencel Luxe.
Lenzing is part of a group that has recently launched the Renewable Carbon Initiative (RCI), which aims to speed up the transition from fossil carbon to renewable carbon for all organic chemicals and materials. Why is it important to Lenzing to be part of these forward-thinking collaborations that tackle industry’s big issues?
We support the Renewable Carbon Initiative because it is the right thing to do and it aligns with our corporate strategy for carbon reduction. In 2019, Lenzing was the first cellulosic fibre producer to have approved Science-based Targets and is now one of 520 companies across all global industries. It is with this leadership that we want to focus on further renewable energy to reduce our carbon footprint. In September, we even launched a True Carbon Zero Tencel branded fibre which is certified CarbonNeutral. We will promote this concept and encourage our partners to become a part of this vision.
What changes would you like to see in the industry in the next few years?
The pandemic has accelerated what I would like to see changed in the denim industry. First of all, we need to redefine value beyond the suggested retail price. There are social and environmental costs to consider and not just in the short term, but also the long term. The more than 50MT of textile waste discarded annually comes at a cost far beyond the price tag. This is not going away without addressing the issue together.
There also needs to be a shared distribution of responsibility and profits. The financial burden should not be with the supply chain to innovate, reduce environmental impact, and have fair labour while retailers make demands and reap the revenue. There is a shared responsibility to our industry, as well as the consumer.
We are at a critical time for transformation during this decade of action.
Tricia directs Lenzing’s global denim segment, as well as the Americas business development teams, with a special interest in advancing more sustainable apparel development from fibre to consumer use. She also serves as secretary of Accelerating Circularity Project, is a member of the FIT Textile Department advisory board and was vice-chair at Textile Exchange from 2014-2018.
