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How trendsetting changed camps

How trendsetting changed camps

There was a time when designers and product developers would, logically and systematically, bring in fresh ideas for trends and fabrics that denim mills and factories would then strive to develop. Those times are (mostly) no more. Today, denim mills and factories are the instigators of trends. Tilmann Wröbel breaks down the process that has led to this inversion in trend defining denims.    One day in ...

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10 September 2024
No wood to waste No wood to waste
In addition to going into manmade cellulosic fibres, the renewable resource that is pulped wood is also being tapped for other textile industry supplies, including polymers and chemicals, offering a new array of materials that are not derived from fossil fuels.
24 July 2024
Japan’s first women’s jeans Japan’s first women’s jeans
When digging into the history of women’s jeans, especially the history of the early makers of jeans for women, would it occur to you to look towards Japan? Well the country has a true pioneer in this space, and a formerly very well-known denim label to boot. Today, Betty Smith is more than just a brand.
27 June 2024
The need for biodegradable fibres The need for biodegradable fibres
Mexican fabric developer Tavex argues that the denim industry should have a preferential option for biodegradable fibres.
11 June 2024
A beacon of innovation A beacon of innovation
Finishing is a critical phase of jeans-making to create the industry’s requisite authentic effects but also for its potential impacts on the environment.
06 June 2024
Fresh pearls in Shanghai Fresh pearls in Shanghai
Ahead of its thirtieth anniversary this August, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics still knows how to draw a crowd.
28 May 2024
Investment-focused Royo boosts super-strength denim Investment-focused Royo boosts super-strength denim
Taking a material from the aerospace industry, a “crazy” idea became Armalith in the hands of the textiles masterminds at Tejidos Royo. Continued investment at the Spanish mill means the price of the fabric has now been slashed in half.
14 May 2024
Cash for carbon cuts Cash for carbon cuts
Achieving net-zero in the apparel supply chain by 2050 will require huge investment.
07 May 2024
The Denim Deal goes global The Denim Deal goes global
A four-year collaborative project to increase the amount of post-consumer recycled cotton in jeans sold in the Netherlands, the Denim Deal, is now looking to replicate the concept on a larger scale.
30 April 2024
The rise of alternative natural fibres The rise of alternative natural fibres
In the wide world of agricultural waste lie many long and strong fibres that can be spun into textile yarns.
23 April 2024
Tipping the scale Tipping the scale
Hundreds, nearing on thousands, of tonnes per month. While still marginal, the volumes of textile waste recycled into new fabrics by denim mills have dramatically scaled up in recent years.
28 March 2024
Cool threads Cool threads
Learning the value of print, process and photorealism with Prosperity.
14 March 2024
Putting Genoa back on the map Putting Genoa back on the map
The city of Genoa would like to remind denim lovers that it made a significant contribution to the world of jeans, through the very term itself, derived from its historic indigo-dyed fustian fabrics.
22 February 2024
Glimpse of the future Glimpse of the future
The Mills Fabrica’s London exhibition unites companies across the supply chain to promote the positive behind-the-scenes work and innovative solutions for responsible denim manufacturing.
15 February 2024
Better purchasing practices Better purchasing practices
The denim industry is often cited as a driver of change in making fashion more sustainable, through its choice of materials and innovation in processes.
01 February 2024
The dynamics of regenerative cotton The dynamics of regenerative cotton
Believed to build the resilience of both farmers and our planet, regenerative cotton farming is slowly gaining ground.
19 December 2023
Angel’s advocate Angel’s advocate
Armedangels became the latest European fashion brand to join the still-exclusive 100% recycled denim jeans club back in July.
12 December 2023
Brewing a new blue Brewing a new blue
Japan’s reputation for trends acceleration makes it a hotbed for textile and fashion innovation.
05 December 2023
Denim mill’s digital diligence pays off Denim mill’s digital diligence pays off
Mexico-based fabric producer Global Denim has said work it had already done to digitally present its collections paid off in a big way when the covid-19 pandemic hit, and has continued to develop in the post-covid environment.
28 November 2023
Eye in the sky Eye in the sky
Being able to spot the difference between organic and non-organic fields of cotton would be a challenge for most people outside the agricultural sector – particularly from a distance of 700km.
23 November 2023
Stemming the flow of microfibre fluff Stemming the flow of microfibre fluff
The presence of microplastic particles has been scientifically established in the air, the oceans, freshwater, soil and rainfall. Textiles are believed to be responsible for 30% of the tiny fibres that blanket our planet. Research into this pervasive phenomenon is ongoing, as are solutions to capture the fluff in factories. No quick fix for fibre fragmentation, however.
14 November 2023
The fine print The fine print
Open up a pair of good-looking vintage jeans. Lay flat. Scan. Transfer the file to the printer. Press go. Laser cut. Sew. Done. This is the promise of digital age jeans fully printed with authentic-looking fading.
07 November 2023
Schools must connect better to the fashion industry Schools must connect better to the fashion industry
The organisers of Denim Première Vision are launching a denim apparel design initiative for students, with the aim of helping new-generation designers understand how clothing manufacturers work in the real world.
02 November 2023
Into the future with Kaihara Into the future with Kaihara
When it comes to denim mills, it is common enough to think that experienced human eyes and hands are involved in the making of great denim fabrics. Can you imagine a mill without any humans? Your fabrics made by robots? If not, read on, and join me on a trip to Kaihara Denim.
31 October 2023
ITMA, the epitome of work in progress ITMA, the epitome of work in progress
Anticipation was high when industry shopping mecca ITMA opened its doors at Fiera Milano Rho this June. Visitors, numbering more than 100,000, flocked from all corners of the world looking for faster, smarter and more efficient equipment and supplies to power the next generations of denims and jeans.
24 October 2023
A greener shade of blue A greener shade of blue
A year on from the inauguration of BluConnection’s new indigo facility, we find out about how clean production and plant-based auxiliaries can help companies ‘walk the talk’ with a lighter footprint.
28 September 2023
Trash into treasure Trash into treasure
Could proteins from feathers provide the building blocks for a new fibre to rival polyester and silk? Bloom Labs believes it has found a solution that could be a good fit for the denim sector.
07 September 2023
New fibres in the loop New fibres in the loop
The need to increase fibre-to-fibre recycling and lack of progress in achieving this is being called out by every sustainable fashion industry coalition and report.
10 July 2023
Telling the tale of indigo Telling the tale of indigo
We are all familiar with the names of famous Japanese denim mills, located between Kurashiki and Hiroshima.
04 July 2023
Upending ultrasound Upending ultrasound
No sodium hydrosulfite, very little water. High frequency sound waves. This is the new recipe for indigo dyeing that Pure Denim and Sonovia are working on.
14 June 2023
Fibre fightback Fibre fightback
Cotton always seems to bounce back from challenging times. Here, a senior vice-president of industry body Cotton Incorporated explains how.
06 June 2023
Fibres build bridges Fibres build bridges
Political support for linen and hemp is growing in northern France and could result in a new sovereign fund to help growers, scutchers and spinners drive innovation. The industry welcomes this but is also focusing on building bridges with garment brands.
30 May 2023
Sustainability stripes Sustainability stripes
Bestseller ponders some of the key threads that together make up the multidimensional tapestry that is its ever-evolving circularity road map.
23 May 2023
Leading with impact Leading with impact
Epic Group’s executive vice-president of innovation and sustainability, Vidhura Ralapanawe, decodes how its newest ‘green’ micro-factory in Bangladesh leveraged its immediate surroundings to achieve the world’s highest LEED score in its category.
09 May 2023
Fittingly inclusive, ahead of the curve Fittingly inclusive, ahead of the curve
A leather bag designer decided to create a perfect pair of jeans. Her first step? Getting rid of standard industry measurements.
02 May 2023
Infinite colour Infinite colour
Dyeing is considered one of the most polluting processes in the textile industry, and growing garment waste is an issue the industry can no longer shrug off.
25 April 2023
Room for nuance Room for nuance
‘Out-of-the-blue’ denim products make up a small part of the market, but they play an important role in providing variety in the all-indigo world of blue jeans.
18 April 2023
Not so limited Not so limited
If you have never been to Bangladesh, you should be prepared to see quite a difference between its former reputation and expectations and today’s reality. A telling example is the Denim Expert Ltd’s ready-made garment factory in Chittagong.
11 April 2023
Garment workers go legal over Tesco Thai ties Garment workers go legal over Tesco Thai ties
Lawyers in the UK have begun legal proceedings on behalf of garment workers in Asia in a potential landmark case. Retail group Tesco and quality and safety audit body Intertek face action over the alleged treatment of workers at a jeans factory in Thailand.
28 March 2023
A new route forward A new route forward
Advance Denim’s general manager, Amy Wang, takes stock of the competitive advantages of the company’s latest factory, challenging the “common” misconception that Vietnamese-made denim is in any way “more basic”.
21 March 2023
Fair and square Fair and square
With the fashion industry’s complex global supply chain and factories located in low-wage countries, ensuring production workers receive decent pay is not easy.
07 March 2023
Customer care Customer care
Originally based in Syria, Sharabati Denim operates two facilities, one in Egypt and the other in Kadirli, in the south of Turkey, where construction began in 2015. With continued investment in new generation equipment, this site has progressively expanded to double and mirror the production of the Egyptian mill.
21 February 2023
Circular engineering Circular engineering
With growing demand for recycled content of any kind and a pressing need to find suitable and sustainable solutions for waste, excess stock and end-of-life clothes, denim mills are investing in closing the loop themselves.
14 February 2023
Making a way Making a way
His eternal optimism in a world of indigo means one of denim’s leading lights has for the first time taken the brand that started it, Daily Blue, back to the drawing board.
07 February 2023
Closer cotton connections Closer cotton connections
If we want cotton in the next thirty years, we need to support small farmers and their communities. This is not the only reason, but the long-term vision driving the development of direct-to-grower programmes. Their ambition is to bridge the wide gap, a chasm really, between global brands and individual farms.

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