Dialogue - insidedenim: Global denim industry news and views site InsideDenim

Dialogue

Miles Johnson on why true denim sustainability demands collaboration, not competition

Miles Johnson on why true denim sustainability demands collaboration, not competition

I’ve seen many changes in my 25 years of designing denim. Many of them absolutely necessary. We never even gave throwing chemicals and unctions at jeans a thought. Why would we? At the time, what things looked like was the most exciting criterion and therefore the most important. What it cost to the customer or the planet didn’t seem to be a problem. Now, cost is a much more complex issue. In design, we ...

Dialogue

15 April 2025
Let’s talk talent and transparency Let’s talk talent and transparency
Mariette Hoitink, owner of talent agency HTNK and co-founder of the House of Denim Foundation and Jean School, with Denim City Amsterdam as her homebase, sees the education of talent as the key to the future of denim.
10 December 2024
Clocking On... Paolo Gnutti Clocking On... Paolo Gnutti
With a schedule that means he’s often on the road, Paolo Gnutti appreciates a day to visit local laundries, ISKO’s northern Italian Creative Room and spend quality time with loved ones.
17 October 2024
Simon Giuliani - “We need to produce what we sell, not the other way around” Simon Giuliani - “We need to produce what we sell, not the other way around”
Simon Giuliani, head of marketing and sustainability for Candiani, calls for a better alignment of industrial business goals with responsible production practices. One of the key issues that needs to be addressed, he says, is overproduction.
13 August 2024
Clocking On...Doug Gunn – Sartorial haven Clocking On...Doug Gunn – Sartorial haven
Doug Gunn preserves a precious part of denim’s history through the vast collection of jeans and men’s garments at The Vintage Showroom.
02 July 2024
The finer details The finer details
Nubuck and crust leather back patches, as well as leathers that allow for embroidery, embellishments and customisation, are big trends for denim companies in upcoming seasons. Vivolo’s new headquarters in Bologna and a €1 million investment in machinery are a demonstration of the patches and trim-maker’s ambitions.
20 June 2024
Annabelle Hutter: Pushing the envelope Annabelle Hutter: Pushing the envelope
Clocking On... A busy schedule means a base in Zurich but a global workplace for Säntis Textiles’ Annabelle Hutter, as she helps brands and manufacturers further their circular ambitions.
21 May 2024
Goodbye to guesswork Goodbye to guesswork
Co-founder David Hieatt tells us how made-to-order, consistency and its ‘salt-of-the-earth' GrandMasters are working to keep Hiut’s factory lights on along Wales’ Ceredigion coast. Maverick style.
16 April 2024
Where are we heading with stretch? Where are we heading with stretch?
Inside Denim’s new Roundtable feature will assemble a cross-section of denim experts to delve into innovation, trends and hot topics. This panel considers how fashions are affecting demand for stretch fibres, what challenges arise and what developments we can expect from the comfort side of the sector.
09 April 2024
Extreme thinking Extreme thinking
Denim consultant Malin Ekengren sees trends evolving with super-wide-leg jeans and the return of the skinny fit. Fibre blends and washes will evolve as designers think of creative ways to revamp style while adding substance.
21 March 2024
Pepe: heritage with attitude Pepe: heritage with attitude
Paola Maestro, chief product officer for Pepe Jeans London, tells us how staying close to its London roots has helped the brand maintain its relevance, as it celebrates its 50th anniversary.
05 March 2024
A stitch in time A stitch in time
Denim industry stalwart Romain Narcy, an Ereks & Era partner since 2020, details the optimistic yet pragmatic vision behind new venture Rematters – Textile Recycling Solutions for us.
29 February 2024
Towonda Vaughns: Building the human connection Towonda Vaughns: Building the human connection
Two decades in denim design and development has taken Towonda Vaughns around the world, giving a long-lens perspective on how the industry is changing.
06 February 2024
“We somehow, perhaps by instinct, decided to side with the environment” “We somehow, perhaps by instinct, decided to side with the environment”
Head of marketing and R&D, Alice Tonello also leads the family-owned company’s Research Centre and Creative Area that are its innovation and experimentation hubs.
01 December 2023
“We are watching EU regulations carefully” “We are watching EU regulations carefully”
From an update to its matte offering, to partnering for circularity and helping brands address the upcoming European Union legislation, Lenzing’s head of global business development for denim, Tuncay Kiliçkan, explains how the Austrian fibre company is keeping one step ahead.
21 November 2023
Vintage advantage Vintage advantage
With music as a backdrop, Left Hand Twill’s Solomon Russell finds inspiration in the classics, curating his archives and catching up on denim’s latest developments.
24 October 2023
Blending chemistry and curiosity Blending chemistry and curiosity
Wojciech Beyger, senior quality manager for 7 For All Mankind, has travelled the world as a standards and laundry specialist, creating new recipes, monitoring back-end processes and passing on his extensive knowledge to those he oversees.
17 October 2023
“It’s vital to invest in new ideas” “It’s vital to invest in new ideas”
Halit Gümüser, a director of Kipas, believes in collaborative approaches to innovation, partnering multiple companies to create new products, with a particular focus on recycled content. The Turkish mill is one of the driving forces behind the Sustainability Talks Istanbul, which takes place in November. It will unite industry players, pass on best practice and create opportunities for start-ups and investors.
10 October 2023
“A mindset shift is crucial, an alternative model is imperative” “A mindset shift is crucial, an alternative model is imperative”
As senior sustainability analyst at Kontoor Brands since 2022, Dr Sarif Patwary develops evidence-based recommendations for improving sustainability for the group’s two iconic consumer brands: Wrangler and Lee.
09 August 2023
Mission and vision Mission and vision
Katrin Ley has headed Fashion for Good since its founding. Six years on, she says it is a turning point and ready to take on a second stage of its development.
19 July 2023
A natural flair: Tetyana Chumak A natural flair: Tetyana Chumak
CLOCKING ON... Designer and TG Botanical creative director Tetyana Chumak weaves moments of wellness into her workday as she balances running her Ukraine-based brands and family farmland remotely from Catalonia.
27 June 2023
Reuse jeans to lower impact Reuse jeans to lower impact
A specialist group dedicated to textiles that the European Recycling Industries Confederation (EuRIC) set up in 2019 has published a lifecycle assessment (LCA) report.
20 June 2023
“It is time to break existing business models” “It is time to break existing business models”
For denim industry leader Nicolas Prophte, it is time to update the definition of a successful business by adding responsible metrics to the existing and dominant financial indicators. He also believes that critical and creative thinking should be encouraged and celebrated, and there is reason to be positive: the denim industry has the potential to lead the way.
02 June 2023
“It can’t be a lab product, you have to go huge” “It can’t be a lab product, you have to go huge”
Nature Coatings’ founder CEO, Jane Palmer, tells us how deep the roots really go of her company’s 100% bio-based BioBlack TX black pigment, a one-for-one and price competitive replacement for petroleum-derived carbon black for textiles, made from certified wood waste.
16 May 2023
Christine Rucci – A True Blue Christine Rucci – A True Blue
Denim expert Christine Rucci has first hand experience working with the biggest names in the industry. Next year, she will be celebrating 40 years in the business of making jeans.
19 April 2023
Leanne Jae: developing a London wash aesthetic Leanne Jae: developing a London wash aesthetic
The wash whizz and laundry manager behind a newly opened denim research and development lab at London jeansmaker Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA), Leanne Jae, also an independent denim, development and wash consultant, discusses her passion for stretching the technologies and minds of both today and tomorrow.
21 February 2023
Dissolve to evolve Dissolve to evolve
Resortecs, the Belgian start-up that has developed dissolvable stitching threads and a disassembly process to simplify the process of recovering and recycling textile products, continues to make progress. Chief executive and co-founder, Cédric Vanhoeck, explains how.
31 January 2023
From global to local From global to local
The Magic of Denim Consultancy founder David Tring shares his personal news and views, from the making of his future denim archive to the evolution of globalisation and work and how they will shape the future of the industry as seen from Hong Kong.
19 January 2023
Tricia Carey – Circularity: the future is now Tricia Carey – Circularity: the future is now
Tricia Carey, Renewcell’s new chief commercial officer, envisions the day when circularity is no longer an option but a requirement. She observes that this entails a radical scaling of innovative circular materials and that current ‘wait-and-see’ attitudes are in effect high risk.
12 January 2023
Emotion-led designing Emotion-led designing
From choosing each day’s jeans to reading indigo philosophy, Christina Agtzidou’s deep love for denim is woven into all aspects of her day.
10 January 2023
Rethink the whole system Rethink the whole system
Milan-based denim designer Rossella Dal Poz, who has worked on successful projects for brands including 7 for All Mankind, Jacob Cohen and Gas Jeans, talks to Inside Denim.
01 December 2022
“Our industry is a trend setter in innovation and sustainability” “Our industry is a trend setter in innovation and sustainability”
Head of Denim Design for Polish brand Big Star, Martin Kuc sees the denim industry as one of the most innovative and sustainable in fashion. He keeps up to date on all new products and concepts and shares his latest finds.
25 October 2022
“We have just this one planet, and we know externalities are ultimately paid for” “We have just this one planet, and we know externalities are ultimately paid for”
Sarah Bellos, founder and CEO of Stony Creek Colors, says the industry has yet to meet the ultimate challenge, shifting to regenerative processes and materials instead of endlessly depleting finite resources.
08 September 2022
A regenerative mindset A regenerative mindset
Sebla Onder, head of sustainability for Orta, walks us through the many steps the company is taking on its journey to making the most sustainable jeans.
12 July 2022
Buenos Aires bound Buenos Aires bound
Clocking On... Argentina-based Ana Paula Alves has a packed schedule, working as a consultant, educator and organiser of South American denim events.
14 June 2022
Stellar progress towards circular ambitions Stellar progress towards circular ambitions
Dutch brand G-Star Raw says customers are increasingly invested in sustainability.
09 June 2022
Ani Wells: People are over heavy marketing and want substance Ani Wells: People are over heavy marketing and want substance
The communications advisor and founder of Simply Suzette tells us that bridging the gap between the industry and consumer with a transparent look at supply chain processes is one of her main focuses, with new research and collaborations under way.
26 April 2022
Making the magic happen Making the magic happen
Moreno De Angelis, head of Italy-based washing research centre Iskoteca, says the chemistry involved in making great jeans needs to be a key consideration throughout the entire process.
12 April 2022
Enrique Silla: A strong eruption of colour will boost the industry to another level Enrique Silla: A strong eruption of colour will boost the industry to another level
Enrique Silla, co-founder of Jeanologia, offers his views on where the industry is heading and how on-demand manufacturing and collaboration will be vital to increase efficiency.
08 April 2022
Phil James: The future of retail is a dual offering and more tactile experiences Phil James: The future of retail is a dual offering and more tactile experiences
The founder of UK-based independent retailer &Sons says working with pioneering fabric suppliers is vital, and the brand’s ties with denim enthusiasts are fundamental to its success
05 April 2022
Blending tradition and innovation Blending tradition and innovation
Clocking On... For more than 130 years, Berto has been synonymous with high-quality fabrics. Its CEO, Flavio Berto, opens the door to the family-run mill.
31 March 2022
Rowan Hunt: 50 years of damage won’t be fixed overnight Rowan Hunt: 50 years of damage won’t be fixed overnight
The UK-based denim consultant says everyone wants to save the planet but it can be hard for big high-street retailers to turn the ship as fast as they’d like. He recommends incremental steps and road maps – small steps can lead to a big impact.
24 March 2022
Lukas Puender: Collaboration between traceability platforms will be vital Lukas Puender: Collaboration between traceability platforms will be vital
The co-founder of Germany-based digital tracing platform Retraced says fashion companies will soon be held accountable for transparency in their supply chains, and has been working with Pakistani denim producer Artistic Milliners to trace cotton from the field to finished product.
15 March 2022
Sandya Lang: Knowledge is power Sandya Lang: Knowledge is power
Sandya Lang, Nudie Jeans’ sustainability manager, is passionate about improving conditions for workers in the supply chain, as well as reducing the brand’s environmental impact.
15 February 2022
Amrin Sachathep: Covid has shown that trust is vital Amrin Sachathep: Covid has shown that trust is vital
From a ‘strategically good’ location close to Bangkok in Thailand, Atlantic Mills specialises in selvedge and Japanese-style denims but with a European slant on colour, creating high-quality, long-lasting fabrics that look even better over time. Its managing director, Amrin Sachathep, shares the vision of his family’s mill.

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