“Our industry is a trend setter in innovation and sustainability”
Head of Denim Design for Polish brand Big Star, Martin Kuc sees the denim industry as one of the most innovative and sustainable in fashion. He keeps up to date on all new products and concepts and shares his latest finds.
Q How did you come to work in denim?
A When I was a teenager, denims were my favourite clothes, especially the most faded pieces. It was my goal, when I started fashion school, to design denim products in the future. After graduation, and without much experience, my first job wasn’t in jeans, but in 2017, I began working for LPP, Poland’s biggest fashion group, where I was responsible for men’s denims for its flagship brand, Reserved. It was the best decision I made, because LPP invests both money and time in developing its employees’ skills. I was also able to travel to attend the key trade shows as well as visit denim mills and garment factories.
I remember well a life-changing experience I had when I attended my first Bluezone show in Munich. I didn’t know anyone, but I knew that I loved the fabric and the product and I wanted it to become part of my life. Once back home, I said to myself: “Ok man, it’ll be a journey but you have a passion for denim and you need to build real skills.” I set myself a challenge that in the next three years, I would be able to sit at the same table with these people and be accepted as one of theirs.
Back in Poland, I focused my efforts on learning all about denim. Every step of the fabric manufacturing, dyeing, weaving, washing, sewing. I also devoted time to innovation, to keep up to date in this industry that never ceases to move forward, and I did not want to slip behind. When I came across something I didn’t know or understand, I reached out to people who could help me through social media. This allowed me to meet some amazing denim insiders with whom I have kept strong relationships to this day.
What new processes, finishes or products have caught your eye recently?
That’s a tough question but also a good question as almost every new solution offers something interesting and new. Among the new developments I’ve seen recently, there are several that stand out for me.
I find the competition between Jeanologia and Tonello fascinating as it leads to never ending innovation. At Kingpins in October, Tonello presented its B.O.P technology, and last time I visited Jeanologia’s offices, I was amazed by their robots that largely automate the laser process. Wiser is now arriving with yet another interesting solution. Its technology will make the competition even more interesting.
I was also impressed by The Lycra Company’s Dual Comfort concept. I think adding Coolmax or Thermolite in jeans is truly useful. I believe it will soon become a core fibre just as DualFX has become. I know it is polyester, but Lycra may introduce a biodegradable version and may offer an alternative to Roica or Coreva.
Another product range I found fascinating are the new sustainable chemicals made by Soko, Lumia, J-Rex and J-Lux. They make washing greener by reducing processing times, water temperatures and their chemistry is safe for the environment. Plus, they make it possible to achieve heavy washes without losing fabric strength.
I’d also like to mention HMS Stone, a company that recycles used pumice powder into new ready-to-reuse stones.
How would you like to see the denim evolve with regards to innovation and sustainability?
Both are important, as I love to test new products and sustainability is another of my key interests. I see digital sampling as a promising perspective, once these programmes are up to par. I have tested many of them and see a lot of room for improvement. I’m 100% sure that these companies will soon create a perfect programme. I believe it will totally change the design process and could be a huge boost for sustainability, as real sampling generates a lot of waste.
Another sustainable solution I am keen on is the use of deadstock. When I talk about this topic with friends from different companies, from different markets, everyone has the same problem with old stock. At the last Kingpins, Jeanologia presented an amazing collection of reworked old trousers. The company can assist brands looking to upgrade their unused stocks and rework them to create a cool, fashionable product from an old basic style. Chapeau bas Carme for this project.
I am constantly awed by this industry’s focus on innovation for more sustainable solutions. I believe every sustainable breakthrough started in denim. Our industry is a trendsetter and pioneer in this field. This is especially true in dyeing solutions, a point that I am particularly proud of.
Tell us about your work at Big Star Jeans, how is the brand evolving?
Big Star is a brand with a long history. It was founded in Switzerland in 1979, and bought by its current Polish owners in 2005. It is a very strong brand on the Polish market, and the company operates around 200 stores. For the design team, what is most important is the focus on quality. We work with the best mills in the world. We are also trying to make jeans as sustainable as possible. This spans all stages, from the selection of sustainable yarns through to dying and finishing. It is not always possible to bring all of these into one product, but we are making progress season after season. My goal is that, step by step, we can propose a 100% sustainable denim collection in the near future.
What’s up in Poland? Is the denim market different from other European countries? What is the denim scene like?
Poland has, of course, a smaller denim scene compared to top European cities, but it is evolving from season to season. This is mainly due to a young generation of customers. They wear new, more fashionable fits, but they also want to know how the products are made, and they are looking for sustainable products. That is, as I see it, the biggest change for the Polish market. The denim community in Poland is small, and we spend a lot of time together. We talk about denim, visit denim trade shows and travel to European denim districts together.
The high streets are lined with big international and Polish retailers, but we have also a few original concepts, such as the brand my girlfriend launched, 13/7, which is based on upcycled denim designs. These up-and-coming brands are changing how we see conventional clothes, which is great, and it makes the market more interesting.
A passionate denim designer focused on sustainable solutions and innovation in denim, Martin Kuc has worked for commercial brands since the beginning of his career. He was born in Poland and spent part of his youth in Germany, and is currently Head of Denim Design for Big Star Limited.
