Rethink the whole system
Milan-based denim designer Rossella Dal Poz, who has worked on successful projects for brands including 7 for All Mankind, Jacob Cohen and Gas Jeans, talks to Inside Denim.
We spoke to Rossella Dal Poz at the start of Milan Fashion Week in September 2022. In this conversation she reflects on the problems caused by the over-production of clothes, and on the best way to manage waste. She also talks about changes in the attitudes of designers, brands and consumers.
Q: Is it possible the current cost of living crisis and its effects on families everywhere will help to raise awareness of the importance of not wasting anything? Could this be a small compensation for how difficult things are at the moment?
A: That’s the thing, yes. I think people will become more careful and try not to waste things, even if real change takes time. Right now, maybe it’s possible that things will continue to go to waste, but in a few years I believe we will get there. I think it’s the only solution, honestly. Putting waste to good use is something I have been fighting for. This will need a collective effort.
Why does the textile industry still create so much waste?
Real consumer demand doesn’t match the offer, and that’s a problem. There is a lot of production that doesn’t really need to take place; there is over-production in the fashion industry. When you create a collection and you start to receive orders, you make a forecast to work out how many pieces you will need. But, in the end, I think there is always a surplus added in. Sometimes this may be because the minimum order quantity at the manufacturer is too high, or at least the cost is much cheaper if you ask the manufacturer to produce more. That cost incentive means you are able to achieve what looks like a better price and it can seem too attractive to ignore. The problem with fashion is that you cannot throw garments away as though they were organic waste.
If everyone knows waste is such a serious environmental problem, why are minimum order quantities still so high?
Well, for me the main problem comes from fast fashion, for sure. There is often a minimum quantity because that’s what the mills insist on. Now, it’s true some mills are reducing their minimum quantities, but if you produce in China or elsewhere in Asia, the minimum is still really high. We have to rethink the whole system, really. If you produce in Italy there are garment manufacturers here that can produce small quantities and have low minimum requests. These companies need to be supported to push artisanal traditions forward and to support local workers as well. Some of them are in danger of extinction. I’m not saying that tailor-made is the answer but demand for custom-made garments is increasing and maybe local and artisanal production is something to think about once again. The price may be higher, but look at the quality of the garment. We should not underpay for fashion and a well-crafted garment will be made to last.
What do you mean when you talk about going beyond upcycling?
It means to go beyond the reuse of garments and think also about transforming them at the end of life into material that you can use for something else. One obvious example is to use textile waste as compost to make the soil better and grow more trees. But there are other interesting possibilities, such as putting the material into insulating panels for cars or houses. Thermal insulation is an important topic these days.
What are the most important changes you have seen with regard to designers’ attitudes to waste and excess?
I can see changes; designers in general are more conscious now, for sure. There is more awareness and you can see a change of attitude in the way many of them go about creating projects. But this still isn’t mainstream. Also, I don’t like the idea of designers turning waste into something valuable and useful just because it is a trend. By definition, a trend will come to an end quite quickly. Designing with a sustainable mindset is a duty. It should be part of our way of living, not just a trend.I believe in designing things that will last and evolve and return to life in a new form.
And in the attitude of clothing brands?
Brands should reduce the number of pieces in their collections. If you think about the situation a few years ago, collections were huge. Did anyone really need all those styles? Sure, if you are a brand you want to show and sell more options, but I think you have to focus and this will lead to smaller offers for the end consumer. Of course, not all consumers are the same. Some are fashion addicts, others are more conservative. They want to choose, but they probably don’t need ten options. We should educate consumers and lead them more. It’s all about communication.
What are the particular considerations here for denim brands and designers?
There are very good things happening in the denim industry, especially among emerging brands. This is a historical moment and smart design is the key. Brands and designers are working to save water by, for example, designing more responsible products that require less washing during the production phase. Focusing on the biodegradability or compostability of garments is another possible answer. I would rather focus on this than on choosing and using organic cotton because, in fact, the volume of real organic cotton produced across the world is very small. Also, it’s important to see brands producing fewer products but with higher quality because this means making products that have durability and this will create less waste. You have to have consciousness that everything you create will go back into the earth one day and either nourish it or poison it.PHOTO: ROSSELLA DAL POZ
