Inside Denim’s new Roundtable feature will assemble a cross-section of denim experts to delve into innovation, trends and hot topics. This panel considers how fashions are affecting demand for stretch fibres, what challenges arise and what developments we can expect from the comfort side of the sector.

Thinking about recent fashions, how have trends for wider-leg styles affected demand for stretch and how will this develop?

Christine Rucci, Godmother NYC:  I see the wide-leg trend continuing, with a slightly slimmer, relaxed kick flare and bootcut leg having more longevity. If designed with the right fit and construction, stretch fibres are important. I feel that comfort stretch (1-2% ) is gaining the lead over high-stretch denims which are "gummy" and usually made with a lot of polyester. I see the straight leg as part of a brand's core offering over the skinny (tapered at the hem) in both men’s & women’s.

Imogen Nulty, Scotch & Soda: As legs gets wider, fabrics can be less stretchy. At Scotch & Soda, we are moving towards a collection that is around 50% stretch and 50% non-stretch. Slimmer fits with some stretch are still relevant for our customers of classical bestsellers, and also important for all of the kids’ jeans, where the amount of movement is key. The sweet spot for us in terms of sales is a straight or tapered fit for men's and boys or flared fit for women's and girls, in a fabric with around 20% stretch. The majority of our innovative styles are in the straighter and looser fits, so we are expecting a shift in that direction.

Jaye Leigo Holmes, Outland Denim: The percentage will change season to season depending on the silhouettes that are trending. A fixed amount is in our core silhouette program, which is 100% comfort stretch, whether this is our classic straight-leg Zoe, or the wider Mia or Ellie. Comfort is obviously the main driver of this uptake - women like to feel good in their denim and achieve a beautiful, figure-flattering fit. I use rigid cotton in the looser silhouettes, like the Avril or Utah, as the 100% cotton base allows for a nice, fluid drape.

What are consumers seeking? 

CR: I often hear comments that customers want 'real' jeans. And consumers are starting to think about 'sustainability' when making jeans purchases and want to improve their carbon footprint. They are also looking for jeans that will last. I think brands tend to get on one trend and that's all they offer. Jeans wearers are multi-generational and many customers comment that brands cater to the younger generation, while younger consumers feel fits offered are too high rise and too stretchy. So, knowing your consumer and offering options is important over trends and fashion  styles, which are usually marked down. Consumers are also looking for brand consistency. Nothing worse than finding the right fit and buying a jean you love and it's no longer offered.

Why is stretch so important to denim companies and what market trends do you see?

Denise Sakuma, Lycra: Stretch is crucial to denim companies because consumers are demanding more comfortable garments that adapt to their changing lifestyles. Size inclusivity is a key factor, and stretch fabrics allow denim to cater to the needs of everybody’s shape and type. We believe that market trends, such as the notable shift towards casualisation, versatility and inclusivity, will continue. Retro-inspired silhouettes, vintage looks, tailored denim with muted washes, and dark colours inspired by recent catwalks are key trends for s/s25 collections.  Another emerging trend we’re observing is men opting for stretch denim and skinny trousers for enhanced comfort. Most importantly, there’s a growing emphasis on sustainability, with denim collections incorporating outdoor and workwear design details and featuring sustainable fibre blends, such as recycled and renewable fibres, to extend the wear life of jeans with long-lasting fabrics.

Mirela Slowik, Isko: Lately, stretch fabrics have gained new momentum and their demand has increased. The Y2K trend is moving from high-waist mom jeans to low-waist denim. This requires stretch fabrics to provide that perfect fit that complements the silhouette while offering freedom of movement. Isko’s fabrics combine the high elasticity aspect with a very authentic look that both brand and retailers expect as it translates in not having to compromise the design or wash.

Simon Hong, Hyosung: Comfort is the most important quality to consumers – and stretch in denim makes this happen. Given concern over the environment, denim brands and their consumers are seeking planet-friendly jeans with planet-friendly materials that will make them feel good about purchasing and wearing.

Intizar Ali, US Denim Mills: The prevailing trend leans towards rigid and comfort stretch denim, with higher stretches being less fashionable, albeit some bootcut and flare fits remain relevant. In our recent seasonal collection Denim Alchemy, we featured 40% rigid fabrics, 40% comfort stretch, and 20% higher stretch materials.

CR: There is a nostalgia trend in the global denim market and heritage brands need to go back to their roots and archives but with a focus on youth culture, including lower rises, less rips / tears, heavier weights and heritage archival fits, which are being sought after at vintage stores.

What do you look for when choosing stretch fabrics with your mill partners?

IN: We are definitely looking for a stretch that doesn't look stretchy! We love authentic-look fabrics with a great construction and visual that suprise us when we realise they contain a little bit of stretch.

CR: I am looking for my mill partners’ commitment to reducing their environmental impact, traceability and quality. I also choose vendors who have running items so that there is consistency from season to season. That also helps my smaller clients who can't meet minimum order quantities. I am also looking for mills which are working with branded fibres, like Lycra, over cheap spandex and polyester. I also choose vendors who are committed to sustainability and circularity and have eco-certification, zero output and traceability in their fabric offerings and mills that use recycled fibres. It's overwhelming when a mill has so many options, even as a denim expert, sometimes I can see hardly any difference. I prefer to see one or two options in a weight category and have them show me the finishing options that one quality offers.

JLH: Our first criteria for all fabric qualities is transparency in the supply chain, so ensuring the fibres are ethically grown and woven. For stretch fabrics, I look at the return - so ensuring the fabric will bounce back after wearing and stretching. It has to bounce back and maintain its shape. This has to do with the weave structure and elastic quality of the fabric. When you have a premium denim base like our stretch fabrics, it ensures that the areas of the body that produce high stretch use, like the knees and buttoned areas, don't sag or blow out. 

How do fibre companies work with mills to create new stretch fabrics? How do you help promote these to brands?

SH: We believe great innovation is a collaborative process! We work across the entire value chain to create new products, which include mills, brands and consumers – even other yarn suppliers. We are always researching/listening to consumer trends to anticipate our value chain needs. There are times when we first work with a mill to develop fabrics with our specialty fibres. There are also frequent times when we first begin working with a brand looking for a material solution it needs.

DS: We are a solutions provider and pride ourselves on being “more than a fibre” supplier to our B2B customers. When you invest in Lycra fibre, you gain access to a range of services, from technical expertise to sustainable solutions and marketing support. We created the Lycra One portal, our latest digital platform designed to facilitate collaboration between customers, including mills and retailers. This online hub features our newest innovations, a fabric library, a knowledge centre, certification services and merchandising assets. 

Can you tell us about any recent developments, or what you are working on?

DS: We’re thrilled to announce that we’ll be unveiling an exciting new innovation at Kingpins in April, accompanied by a press conference. Unfortunately, I’m unable to disclose any details as everything is under embargo until the official launch on April 24.

SH: Hyosung is expanding its regen Bio-Based spandex offering to include options for the yarn to be made with both 70% and 98% renewable resources. According to an independent lifecycle assessment (LCA), the manufacture of 1kg regen Bio-Based spandex reduces its carbon footprint by 20% as compared to the production 1kg of conventional spandex. We will have LCA certification on our regen Bio-Based spandex made with 70% and 98% renewable resources soon. Circularity is also top of mind for brands and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign guidelines require that denim be made with a minimum of 98% cellulosic material, leaving 2% of the content for stretch or synthetic material – a challenge as consumers are accustomed to high stretch and comfort. Hyosung’s Creora 3D Max spandex delivers high-performance stretch and recovery with a very small portion of spandex content. Hyosung has now added sustainable and functional versions of the fibre that match the same performance and recyclability benefits as the conventional version, including new USDA and SGS-certified regen Bio-Based 3D Max spandex; RCS-certified, 100% recycled regen 3D Max spandex made from reclaimed production waste; and Creora Easy 3D Max spandex, which provides soft power with excellent stretch and recovery. 

MS: Our most recent stretch-related advancements include Reform100. This technology reaches 100% elasticity with an authentic, even open-end look, granting maximum comfort, excellent shape retention, stressless fit, limitless movement, no bagginess and flexible size advantages. But stretch properties play a pivotal role also in other segments like non-denim, activewear etc., where stretch is mandatory for a perfect fit and comfort and Isko has been working hard in that direction too.

What challenges do different types of stretch present?

MS: There are a lot of aspects to take into consideration, such as shrinkage and lower width, especially when dealing with stretch fabrics. But Isko’s long-standing expertise as an experienced denim manufacturer ensures that any challenge can be handled and easily dealt with.

IA: When producing fabrics with increased stretch, greater attention to detail is necessary compared to standard rigid and comfort stretch materials. However, the primary difficulty lies in maintaining the denim's characteristic texture when employing higher levels of stretch.

CR: As a designer, stretch denims make it easier with fit than when designing in 100% cotton. The main issue from consumers is often recovery, which is why it is important to have fabrics with branded fibres which are rigorously tested. At the manufacturing level, it's important to focus on spreading and cutting to relax stretch goods properly, which takes time, as well as shrinkage and price, which is often an issue. That is why so many denim brands opt for cheaper qualities with a higher polyester content. 

JLH: Shrinkage is an issue for all denim fabrics, whether stretch or rigid, so we have a stringent quality control process in the pattern making and development stage. Each colour batch of fabric is shrinkage tested and the % of weft and warp shrinkage is calculated to have the patterns adjusted accordingly. As we are constantly developing new and beautiful shades of denim, this process is important to the overall quality of the end jean. For end of life, the synthetic elastic component remains problematic. The industry is working on biodegradable elastane but it's not there yet in terms of quality, which has impact on the product's longevity and durability. As soon as those elements are there, we are in on it. We are also working toward how to manage the waste stream, including for end-of-life products.

How about the issue of recycling stretch fabrics, and what progress is being made in this regard?

DS: One of the challenges is the need for separation and recovery processes that do not destroy the stretch component. The Lycra Company is actively working to develop fibres that can withstand these processes across a variety of fabric types, including fabrics where Lycra fibre is used in combination with cotton, polyester or nylon. At the Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress in September 2023, we showcased our successful collaboration with a polyester recycler, demonstrating the successful separation of a special type of Lycra fibre from polyester in a fabric. The recovered Lycra fibre was then mixed with virgin polymer and re-spun into new fibre with a recycled content of 33%. Importantly, the performance was equivalent to virgin fibre. Our ongoing efforts involve collaboration with industry partners across the value chain, from sorting facilities to mills and brand retailers, to collectively advance circular solutions for the textile industry.

SH: Recycling stretch fabrics is a challenge, and organisations such as Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign guidelines for recyclable denim are helping brands to develop jeans that are recyclable. Circularity is the ultimate solution over time, and we will get there if we all work together.

MS: When it comes to recycling fabrics blended with stretch fibres, Re&Up, [Isko parent group] Sanko’s latest venture, is bound to broaden the scope of accessible waste streams thanks to its ability to recycle poly/cotton blends, including elastane.

IA: The primary obstacle in recycling lies in ensuring traceability. However, recycled cotton, polyester and elastane are readily available in the market. There is a growing customer demand to transition from virgin materials to recycled ones, a trend expected to escalate in the future.

IN: The elastane does bring a challenge in terms of recyclability so it’s a positive thing for us to reduce the amount of stretch fabrics in the collection and see a move towards more non-stretch. The long-term key for us is to design desirable products that you can guarantee will sell and that are wearable and have longevity and by doing that you avoid a short lifecycle and landfill.

Where do you see the sector heading in terms of stretch designs or usage?

IN: I think we are at the peak of a strong trend for looser shapes. This will come full circle and the trend will move back to slimmer and then skinny shapes again. The skinny jean will make a comeback, and with that will come a demand for more performance stretch fibres. Technology is constantly evolving to find alternative fibres that can give stretch characteristics but are biodegradable. Hopefully, by the point that skinny is back, there will be more widespread commercial availability for these fabrics. 

JLH: I don't think anyone would want to use synthetics if there were viable alternatives. Stretch is here to stay because the consumer loves it, so the faster the technology catches up to deliver solid, reliable biodegradable options, the better.

CR: Stretch denim will never fade away. But we first need to dispel the notion that stretch jeans alone ruined the planet, through marketing to educate consumers. Brands need to move away from cheap denim fabric and start to make quality jeans that last. I see denim fabrics getting heavier and a return to classic fit and cleaner washes which makes them last longer. I feel comfort stretch will take the lead over super high-stretch denim and I am very excited about the new bio-derived Lycra fibre made with Qira, launching in 2025. We are also seeing the move towards denim made from post-consumer cotton fibre and Tencel. I am hoping that the denim industry will stop using single-use plastic, which is one of the biggest pollutants, from the mills to the consumers. This would be a huge reduction of waste and carbon footprint, not only for the denim sector, but the entire fashion industry as a whole.

Roundtable panel
• Christine Rucci, denim consultant, Godmother NYC, US
• Imogen Nulty, director of denim, Scotch & Soda, The Netherlands
• Jaye Leigo Holmes, head designer, Outland Denim, Australia
• Mirela Slowik, category leader, Isko, Turkey
• Intizar Ali, general manager of research and business development, US Denim Mills, Pakistan
• Denise Sakuma, vice-president of brand marketing communications, The Lycra Company, US
• Simon Hong, denim lead, Hyosung, South Korea

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