Dawson Denim’s evolution
The UK brand has come a long way in a little over 10 years and is now making its Japanese ties even stronger as it launches production with a Kojima manufacturer. Co-founder Kelly Dawson explains the ethos.
For those that don’t know Dawson Denim, can you tell us briefly about the brand, its journey, and philosophy?
Dawson Denim was founded in 2012 by us, Kelly Dawson and Scott Ogden. We started out making denim workwear aprons and launched them at a trade show called Best of Britannia. Within weeks, we’d become the uniform of choice at Ace Hotel, various independent coffee shops, and even Selfridges. In 2014, we introduced our first pair of jeans, and since then, the collection has grown into a full workwear offering. What started small has evolved into an international brand, but our values have remained the same: quality craftsmanship, timeless design and transparency in how we make things.
Can you tell us a bit more about Dawson’s new evolution, with pieces made in Japan?
As with any journey, things change and grow – and for us, this was the right time to take a new step. We’ve partnered with a trusted manufacturer in Kojima, the heart of Japanese denim production, and last month [February] we launched our first made-in-Japan collection under Dawson Denim (mfg) Ltd. It’s not about outsourcing – it’s about evolution. We’re still very much involved in the process, but now we’re combining our design ethos with the exceptional craftsmanship that Japan is known for. Of course, this also enables us to facilitate wholesale, for the first time.
What is so special about Japanese denim and the craftspeople there, and how do the techniques affect the jeans?
Above all, it’s the quality. Japanese denim is renowned for being woven on vintage shuttle looms that produce an unparalleled fabric. The attention to detail, the respect for traditional methods, and the fastidious nature of Japanese craftsmanship really shine through in every piece. Also, the strict laws on living wages, water processing and health and safety. We’re lucky to work with people who care deeply about their craft – just like we do.
Who are your main customers, and what do they value?
Our customer base is wonderfully diverse, but the common thread is a desire for clothing that lasts, both in terms of quality and style. We’ve dressed grandfathers and grandsons alike, which says a lot about the timelessness of our pieces. Many of our supporters come from creative backgrounds – designers, artists, makers. They appreciate the story behind what they wear and make the conscious decision to buy better, buy less.
What are your plans for growth, and how do you spread the word about Dawson Denim?
We’ve always relied heavily on word of mouth, and we’re proud that our returning customer rate is so high. We learned early on that social media only really works if you have a big budget; something we don’t as an independent brand. Instead, we focus on more personal ways of connecting, like our newsletter, which has become a space for honest updates and storytelling. It’s how we speak directly to people who genuinely care about what we do.
What do you like most – and least – about the denim industry?
Denim is an investment product, and at our level, it creates deep, lasting connections with the people involved. That’s one of the things we love most – building real relationships, whether it's with the weavers at the mills, the dyeing families who’ve been in the craft for generations, or the retailers and customers who become part of the Dawson story.
Of course, like any relationship, sometimes things don’t work out. But we carry a huge amount of respect for everyone who has been part of our journey. One of the joys of what we do is that, partly because of our repair service, we often stay in touch with customers for years. We see how the denim ages, how it becomes part of their lives, and that’s incredibly special.
Finally, what makes you personally happy, and what are your hopes for the next few years?
Creating something meaningful. That’s what keeps us going. Whether it’s working with incredible makers, seeing a customer wear a piece years later, or just being able to design with integrity – it all matters. In the next few years, we hope to keep refining what we do, build even stronger partnerships, and continue growing at our own pace, without compromising what makes us Dawson.
