What do auxiliary chemicals do exactly and why do we need to know? Denim’s top chemists explain how their expertise helps create the magic – and why a few more cents at garment level makes a lot more sense for the environment.

Can you tell us about your flagship product/s, in simple terms, and how they create the magic?

Peter Zinser:  We have developed the Nature Conscious Dyeing (NCD) process. With our pre-reduced liquid Indigo solutions – our DenimBlu range – and BluMate, a newly developed product, which replaces hydrosulfite, we are able to produce fashionable and authentic indigo-dyed denim, which is free of hydrosulfite and, if required, aniline free. The NCD process has the potential to be a game-changer for the industry: the most natural it can get. 

Thomas Aplas: CHT launched a potassium permanganate (PP) substitute in 2015. OrganIQ Bleach T has hardly any differences in terms of application, and the result is indistinguishable. The curse is that nothing, no ecologically sustainable alternative, can be cheaper than PP or even chlorine bleach. This means that any real turn towards more ecological production in jeans treatment is associated with additional costs, which are unfortunately very rarely accepted. In 2024, the marketing of OrganIQ Bleach T was discontinued due to a lack of success – we are talking about additional costs of €0.2 to €0.3 per jeans – devastating! Nevertheless, development continued. Products and processes for water and energy savings, developed with the leading machinery manufacturers, or replacements for chlorine bleach and even pumice stones, are the current flagships. 

Luca Braschi: We define as flagship innovations all those breakthroughs that have revolutionised the way we wash garments, setting new industry standards. One such innovation is undoubtedly Lumia. Its magic? Creating a stunning stone-bleached effect without stones or bleaching agents. Even more impressive, Lumia requires zero water consumption during its application and reaction, making it a game-changer for brands seeking true sustainability. Have you ever seen a bleach that works without water? This single product is effective on blue denim, black denim and dyed garments, replacing multiple hazardous chemicals and drastically reducing chemical stock. It is one of the most effective synergies between chemical and technological innovation, as it activates ozone under dry conditions.

Alberto de Conti: Many of our flagship products are centred around innovative chemical solutions that enhance the performance, sustainability and aesthetics of textiles while being either of biological origin or developed through biomimicry. For example, our Bionic Finish range revolutionises denim finishing by reducing water, energy and chemical consumption while delivering exceptional softness and durability. The 'magic' lies in our ability to combine cutting-edge chemistry with sustainability, creating products that not only perform exceptionally but also align with the industry's growing demand for eco-conscious solutions.

Andrea Venier: Our magic lies not only in our 30 years of experience in chemical research and application for the textile industry, but also in our unique ability to blend creativity with sustainability. We believe that true innovation is born from a mix of passion, curiosity, teamwork, and the right amount of madness. We approach every challenge with the understanding that aiming for “zero impact” is a myth. Instead, our focus is on minimising and improving impact through smart, innovative technologies. Aqualess Mission is a product range that enables brands to achieve stone-wash and bleaching effects with minimal water use. It’s a true game-changer in regions where water scarcity is a critical issue. Meanwhile, Recycrom embodies our commitment to circularity. This patented dyestuff is made entirely from recycled clothing and textile fibres, which are upcycled into vibrant powders suitable for dyeing natural fibres, blends and garments. 

Serdar Demircioglu: Traditional denim washing requires large amounts of water and pumice stones, which lead to waste and fabric damage. Our advanced enzyme technology with Lava Cell NSY delivers authentic vintage looks without using water or stones, reducing environmental impact and increasing efficiency. Our ozone activator (Lava Con OZN) enhances the bleaching effect of ozone on dry garments, making the process faster, more consistent and even more sustainable by minimising chemical usage. Lava Con LAC (laser enhancer) improves the contrast and sharpness of laser markings, ensuring crisper patterns, better burn effects and higher efficiency in laser finishing. Lava Con LSB (laser smoothing agent) prepares fabric for laser processing by evening out fibre structure, leading to smoother, more uniform laser applications with reduced defects. Lava Con PBA is a safe and sustainable alternative to potassium permanganate, delivering the same high-contrast vintage and worn-out effects without harmful residues. 

What are some of the biggest misconceptions about chemicals? 

Peter Zinser: There are not many misconceptions about chemicals within in the industry, but there are misconceptions among consumers who don't understand chemistry. I believe the importance of chemicals in our daily life is widely understood. However, there are greenwashing campaigns and other (social) media influencing the consumers in a questionable way. Explanation of chemicals’ behaviour and education is not happening sufficiently.

Thomas Aplas: On Valentine's Day, I read a funny but also interesting post from one of our competitors, the Rudolf company: “Did you know that oxytocin and dopamine play a key role in falling in love? Chemistry is more romantic than you think!” A very nice reminder that chemistry is not only in us, but in much more than we think. This proliferation is not to be understood in a negative way. Take formaldehyde, for example: a harmful substance that is now avoided wherever possible in the textile industry is contained in apples at around 20mg per kilo. And this does not come from pesticides. Or potassium permanganate, the most harmful chemical in jeans bleaching, is available in pharmacies as a disinfectant. Careful production, correct application and the quantity used are important. Because this is not always taken into account, the biggest misunderstanding is that ‘chemicals = bad’.  

Luca Braschi: The primary misconception is that chemicals are inherently harmful. Chemistry is a part of our lives, whether we like it or not. Just as nature contains both harmful and harmless chemicals; in our research, we always strive to use raw materials that comply with safety standards or come from natural sources.

Alberto de Conti: One of the biggest misconceptions is that all chemicals are harmful or unsustainable. In reality, modern chemical innovations are often designed to solve environmental challenges. For example, the latest generation of Rudolf’s technologies are made out of renewable raw materials, eliminating hazardous substances and improving recyclability. Another misconception is that bio-based alternatives are always better. This isn’t necessarily true, as synthetic chemicals can be engineered to be safe and very efficient.

Andrea Venier: One of the most common misconceptions is that chemicals can be completely eliminated. The truth is: chemistry is everywhere, it is the foundation of our world. The key lies not in avoidance but in choosing the right chemicals and using them responsibly. In the textile industry, for example, even if we replace the most hazardous substances, we can’t simply substitute them with water, otherwise, we lose the functionality. It’s about smart substitution and responsible use, not the impossible pursuit of a chemical-free world.

Serdar Demircioglu: Many people assume that all chemicals are dangerous, but in reality, chemicals are essential to modern life. The key is responsible formulation and usage. Another is that natural is always better than synthetic. While natural ingredients have their benefits, not all natural substances are safe, and not all synthetic chemicals are harmful. There’s a common belief that eco-friendly chemicals aren’t as effective as traditional ones or that more chemicals equals better results. But in denim washing, using excessive amounts of chemicals can actually damage fabrics and increase waste. 

Is there anything you’d like designers or other industry people to know more about, when it comes to the chemistry or innovation in chemicals?

Peter Zinser: Of course, I’d prefer that designers and other people in the industry have some basic knowledge and are interested in the application of dyes and chemicals. However, this is wishful thinking, and it’s rare that we encounter real interest in the behaviour of chemicals. Making denim better should be not only in our interest but also in designers’ and retailers’ interest. 

Thomas Aplas: With most ecological alternative bleaching agents for denim, we can achieve almost identical bleaching results to chlorine bleach or PP. Only “almost” because, despite the perfect bleaching effect, the colour tone of a blue denim almost always looks a little greyer. It is no less beautiful. But if this is not accepted, you are closing off many opportunities to become significantly more ecological. So, my appeal to all creative people is to look at the possibilities! There are many good things.

Luca Braschi: I would appreciate it if they were open to accepting that chemical products enhance the washing process, often making it more sustainable. For instance, try washing dishes without soap – you'll see how much more water you need to use. Chemical innovation brings fresh ideas in both sustainable concepts and creative aesthetics. Designers are always seeking inspiration, and chemicals often unlock a diverse range of effects. 

Alberto de Conti: I’d like designers and industry professionals to understand that chemistry is a powerful tool for innovation and sustainability. Advanced chemical solutions can enable closed-loop systems, reduce waste and create fabrics with unique properties like self-cleaning surfaces or enhanced durability. Collaboration between chemists and designers is key – by understanding the possibilities of chemistry, designers can push the boundaries of creativity while staying aligned with sustainability goals.

Andrea Venier: We would love for designers and industry professionals to take a closer look at alternative solutions. Too often, these options are dismissed prematurely because they are perceived as more expensive or challenging to implement. We are dedicated to bridging this knowledge gap by educating the supply chain and providing hands-on experiences to showcase the true potential of our solutions. A perfect example is our Zero PP product package. Our goal was not only to achieve the same aesthetic and functional effects as PP but also to prove that sustainability does not always come at a higher cost. In fact, for this solution, the costs are comparable to the traditional method.

Serdar Demircioglu: Many assume eco-friendly solutions are more expensive, but in reality, sustainable chemistry often improves process efficiency, reducing waste and operating costs. The best denim finishes happen when designers and chemical experts work together. By understanding the capabilities of modern chemicals, designers can push creative boundaries without compromising sustainability or efficiency. 

How does the chemical company/tech supplier/manufacturer/brand relationship work in terms of chemicals, and who has the buying power?

Peter Zinser: The selection of the chemicals lies in the hands of the denim mills and the laundries/garment finishing facilities. We also see some (half hearted) influence from the retailers in the name of sustainability...however, in the end, the whole supply chain is not environmentally driven but cost-driven. Greenwashing campaigns from the retailers seem to be cheaper than real sustainability improvements. The communication and relationship in the spirit of environmental improvements between the different players is not sufficient, especially when it comes to the use of chemicals. The majority of the market doesn't really care, I repeat: they are strictly cost-driven. 

Thomas Aplas: The buying power lies with the laundries and dye houses themselves. And I think that's right in most cases. That's where the experts are, and they should know exactly what they need, given the local conditions and requirements. However, the requirements should be clearly specified and monitored by the brands. We see the greatest difficulty in setting moderate achievable requirements, providing resources for implementation and monitoring compliance. (By moderate, I don't mean low requirements. I mean, for example, that you don't stipulate compliance with five different standards, but focus on one that makes sense. Unfortunately, this happens often.)

Luca Braschi: The choice of a chemical product doesn’t always follow a predefined formula. Some brands are more involved in product selection, while others focus solely on achieving the desired aesthetic outcome, regardless of the chemistry behind it – this is especially true for basic chemicals like enzymes, dispersants, oxidising agents, etc. Innovative chemical products, however, take a different path. They hold greater appeal for both brands and contractors aiming to achieve new sustainability or marketing goals.

Alberto de Conti: The relationship is highly collaborative. Chemical companies work closely with manufacturers and brands to develop tailored solutions that meet specific performance, aesthetic and sustainability requirements. While brands often drive the selection process based on their vision and consumer demands, the expertise of textile manufacturers and chemical suppliers is crucial in delivering innovative and sustainable solutions. 

Andrea Venier: The chemical sector often carries the perception of having the highest environmental impact in the supply chain, as it involves multiple steps and products to achieve the final look and feel of a garment. However, this complexity also opens the door to valuable collaboration. We work closely with manufacturers, brands and supply chain partners to find innovative solutions that deliver the best performance, balancing costs and impact. Ultimately, buying power lies with our customers, which is why we invest heavily in transparency and education. Through workshops, we invite clients to witness each step of garment development, showcasing how our solutions work in practice. 

Serdar Demircioglu: The relationship between chemical companies, tech suppliers, manufacturers and brands is collaborative, with each player contributing to the overall success of the product development process. Ultimately, brands have the final say in terms of chemical choices, as they control the supply chain and purchasing decisions. However, manufacturers often influence these decisions by recommending specific chemicals based on cost-effectiveness and application efficiency. 

Are there any products that you feel have yet to make the impact they deserve in the market?

Peter Zinser: Yes, our above-mentioned NCD process deserves to have more impact. Think about it: roughly 80,000 tonnes of hydrosulfite are used in the denim dyeing application. The whole amount could be replaced by a natural product. This would be a huge step in the right direction. Our partner Naveena, Lahore from Pakistan approached a major retailer...guess what? Even though it is a similar cost as the current dyeing process, they are not interested. If it was 20% cheaper than the current fabric, they would be interested. To me, this is a shame. But I'm confident that we will find some other ways to get the hydrosulfite-free denim in the market. Maybe not through the big retailers but through the smaller retailers, which are open to listening to us. We have some promising talks ongoing. 

Thomas Aplas: For me, these are the new, modern products that have been developed with the aim of making the incredibly innovative machine technologies even more efficient. Recent history has shown that the combination of specialty chemical products and the latest machine technology opens up possibilities that previously seemed unthinkable. My favourite example is ozone technology. With specially developed chemical products, this sustainable machine technology can be raised to a very high level of efficiency on a sustainable basis. It is this type of innovation that deserves more of a breakthrough.

Luca Braschi: This question isn’t easy to answer, chemical innovation evolves rapidly. Market dynamics often favour quicker solutions at the expense of product categories with greater potential, such as natural dyes.

Andrea Venier: Absolutely. One of our standout innovations is Recycrom: it’s a truly circular solution, combining creativity and sustainability to offer an alternative to traditional synthetic dyes. However, while the potential is undeniable, it hasn’t yet achieved the market adoption we hoped for. That’s why we’re dedicating significant resources to overcome its limitations and make it accessible at an industrial scale. 

Serdar Demircioglu: Ozone technology has gained traction in the laundry industry as a sustainable way to create fading effects in denim, but ozone activators that enhance its bleaching potential are underused. These activators make the ozone process more efficient and consistent while reducing the overall chemical footprint. And this technology significantly reduces water and chemical use in denim processing. As sustainability becomes increasingly important to brands and consumers, ozone activators will be a game-changer in reducing environmental impact while achieving the desired aesthetic.

How do you see the industry changing, in terms of how regulations might affect chemicals, or traceability etc? 

Peter Zinser: From my experience of more than 40 years in the industry, I have to admit, I'm quite disillusioned. It's a huge task to regulate a globalised industry. The regulators are often far away from the companies that are affected, for instance in China or the Indian subcontinent. We have been faced with more and more regulations, with questionable impact. Truthfully, the industry is not really regulated by neutral institutions but by self-appointed companies. Their mission sounds good, but the truth is they want to make money. Think of the number of greenwashing certificates we see when we go shopping for clothes. For years we have offered a QR code that allows full transparency of our products, one page with all production details, such as raw materials used, water consumption, etc. – but no response. No retailer is interested in really enlightening the consumers. They fear It could compromise their branding.

Luca Braschi: The industry has already changed significantly over the past decade, thanks to a growing awareness. However, it’s still not enough; many productions continue to rely on unsustainable chemicals. We must also question if alternatives are always better than conventional methods, to avoid greenwashing. There’s definitely room for improvement in traceability and stricter regulations. Ideally, we’d like to have a single certification that speaks for the entire industry.

Alberto de Conti: The industry is moving toward stricter regulations and greater transparency. Traceability is becoming a key focus, with brands and consumers demanding full visibility into the supply chain. Regulations will continue to push the industry toward safer, greener chemicals, and companies that invest in innovation and transparency will thrive in this evolving landscape.

Andrea Venier: The landscape of regulations and certifications is evolving rapidly, and while traceability is becoming more important, the complexity of standards can sometimes create confusion. The industry is flooded with multiple certifications, many of which are not fully understood by end consumers. We believe the solution lies in simplification and unification. Imagine a scenario where the industry follows a clear, standardised guideline – something akin to an ISO Standard for safer chemicals. This would not only make compliance easier but also offer 100% transparency to consumers, empowering them to make informed choices. Regulations have undoubtedly helped us move towards safer, more reliable products, but we need to ensure our communication is just as clear. 

Serdar Demircioglu: As governments and international organisations tighten regulations on water usage, chemical emissions and waste disposal, denim producers will increasingly be held accountable for their environmental impact. The need for traceability will push chemical suppliers and manufacturers to adopt transparent and easily traceable chemical formulations. Brands will demand clear documentation on chemical usage, disposal methods and sustainability certifications. Regulations will likely demand that the use of harmful chemicals like PP and chlorinated compounds be minimised or eliminated. Chemical companies will be required to develop solutions that support closed-loop systems, where chemicals can be reused, and water can be treated and recycled. This could lead to innovations like chemical recycling agents that help break down fabric fibres for reuse or chemicals that can be efficiently recycled and repurposed after each wash. Chemical suppliers will need to work closely with manufacturers to provide the documentation and certifications that verify their products meet regulatory standards. We may also see increased use of third-party audits of chemical use in textile production. 

How does your expertise make denim better?

Peter Zinser: Magic sometimes doesn't have to be complicated or expensive. Our NCD process proves it.

Luca Braschi: Years of industry experience and expertise are a valuable asset, especially when used to solve and improve current production processes. We believe in fostering partnerships between industry players, supporting each other along the way. That’s why we created the Soko Projects Division, where we offer tailored solutions to meet the needs of brands, fabric producers, designers and contractors. 

Alberto de Conti: Our expertise lies in understanding the chemistry of denim at every stage, from dyeing and finishing to washing and finishing. We’ve developed technologies like the Offuel, a range of chemical auxiliaries based almost entirely (at least 90%) on alternatives to crude oil. By combining innovation with sustainability, we’re helping to redefine what denim can be.

Andrea Venier: Our Development Centre is at the heart of everything we do. It allows us to stay in tune with the challenges our clients face daily, offering a unique perspective on market needs and emerging trends. This deep connection fuels our continuous research and development, enabling us to refine existing solutions and introduce new processes that meet the industry’s evolving demands. 

Serdar Demircioglu: In essence, our expertise makes denim better by enhancing its aesthetics, improving sustainability and delivering superior performance through innovative, safer chemical solutions. 

Roundtable panel
Peter Zinser – Managing director, BluConnection, Singapore.
Thomas Aplas – Head of garment textile auxiliary solutions, CHT, Germany.
Luca Braschi – Marketing and technology manager, Soko Chimica, Italy.
Alberto di Conti – Head of Rudolf Fashion Division, Germany.
Andrea Venier – Managing director, Officina39, Italy.
Serdar Demircioglu – Sales and marketing director, Kaiser Tekstil, Turkey.

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