AllSaints’ head of women’s denim, Mariella Ertl, tells Inside Denim how close relationships with suppliers are vital as the brand expands globally. 

How did Ian Berry help you to celebrate the new-season launches?

At the beginning of this season, we were thrilled to collaborate with Ian Berry, who created a stunning window installation at our Regent Street store – entirely crafted from denim. Ian’s artwork beautifully reimagines denim as a natural, plant-based material, symbolising the journey from cotton to fabric and back to nature. This installation was the perfect backdrop for the launch of our Spring Collection, which draws inspiration from themes of metamorphosis and rebirth.

Another exciting collaboration this season was with artist Dave Buonaguidi, aka Real Hackney Dave. He created an exclusive line of denim patches for us, adding yet another layer of artistry to our collection!

What are the main trends, and can you tell us a little about the new collection?

I’m not particularly fond of the word ‘trends’ when it comes to denim. For me, denim is about creating pieces that feel timeless yet contemporary. We aim to set our own direction rather than simply follow trends. This means incorporating embellishments, prints and thoughtful details to keep our designs fresh and relevant, while ensuring they remain versatile and enduring. I enjoy designing classic denim pieces and giving them an unexpected twist – like pairing a vintage wash with a bold, shiny gold button. It’s about creating contrasts that are unique to denim.

This season, we’re introducing new wide-leg silhouettes with displaced seams and asymmetric hems, straight legs with crossover waistband details, barrel-leg silhouettes and bootcut jeans (a customer favourite!). Embellishment and studs are another key element of this collection – our customer can choose between unembellished and limited-edition, hand embellished versions of the same silhouette and wash. We’re also offering garment and sustainable fabric coatings, pushing boundaries in both texture and finish. I'm proud to say that over 90% of our womenswear denim collection is made in Turkey using the best Turkish fabrics.

As AllSaints opens stores globally, how do you react to different markets, and what do you have to keep in mind as you expand? Do you have a core vision for all your customers?

As AllSaints expands globally, we embrace the diversity of our markets and their unique tastes, but we also stay grounded in our core vision. Denim is a universal language, but each market brings its own cultural influences and preferences. When responding to trends in different regions, we keep in mind that our goal is to design denim that feels both authentic to the brand and relevant to local customers. We pay attention to the local climate, lifestyle and style preferences – whether it's the demand for more relaxed fits in one region or the popularity of more fitted styles in another.

However, at the heart of everything we do is our commitment to creating timeless, high-quality denim with a modern edge. Regardless of the market, we stay true to our values of craftsmanship, sustainability and innovation. We believe that denim should be versatile, durable and designed to be worn by people all over the world, which is why we make sure that every piece we design is adaptable to various tastes without compromising on our brand ethos. Our core vision is to offer pieces that feel personal, elevate everyday style and stand the test of time, no matter where our customers are.

On a more personal level, what made you gravitate towards working in the denim sector, and what do you like most about it?

My journey into the denim sector happened by chance, and it feels like fate. While studying, I won an internship at a German denim brand, which led me to work on my first denim project in their pattern room and laundry. I fell in love with the hands-on approach, watching raw fabric transform through dry process and washing. 

Before pursuing denim, I had studied interior design, and I quickly noticed the parallels between the two fields. Both denim and interior design are about creating environments that feel lived-in and personal. It’s about balancing texture, colour, and form to evoke mood and tell stories. Whether it's a piece of furniture or a pair of jeans, the goal is to design something people connect with on a personal level, which I find incredibly rewarding.

Denim is for everyone. It’s a staple in almost every wardrobe, the cornerstone of countless looks. A great pair of jeans evolves with you, becoming uniquely yours over time. At its core, denim is humble. It may not always be the ‘star’ of a collection, but without it, nothing else shines quite as bright. It’s the quiet foundation that holds everything together.

What do you look for in your suppliers, and how do you work together to bring your vision to life?

I love working with our suppliers! The relationship I have with them is crucial to bringing our vision to life. From pattern making to wash techniques, thread colours, distressing and trims, every detail is like a piece of a puzzle that comes together through collaboration. Our suppliers’ creativity and flexibility are key – they’re always willing to try new ideas, even when they seem challenging. It’s amazing what they can achieve when we work closely together. 

Bringing my vision to life is a dynamic process that varies with each design. Every garment has its own story, and I approach each one differently. Sometimes, it starts with hands-on work in the atelier, where I create patterns, draw directly onto garments, cut them and reassemble them in new ways. Other times, it begins with sketches that evolve as we collaborate. I also get a lot of inspiration from vintage clothing, translating those timeless elements into modern pieces. With our office near Brick Lane in London, I’m constantly inspired by the creativity around me! 

I speak to our suppliers every day, refining fabric choices, trims and experimenting with washes. Their expertise is vital in turning concepts into reality. Over time, they’ve become more than just business partners, they’ve become team members and friends, and I’m very grateful for them.

What role does circularity play in the denim sector, and where do you see this heading?

The denim industry is evolving, and I believe the future lies in a world where recycling, longevity, and responsible production are the norm. Denim used to be one of the most environmentally taxing industries, but it’s also one of the quickest to address and correct these issues. The shift towards circularity is closely linked to broader environmental goals, tackling issues like textile waste and overconsumption. 

I love working with mills like Isko, whose Ctrl+Z concept eliminates the use of virgin cotton, and I admire Evlox and Realteks’ regenerative cotton initiative. Our suppliers are pioneers in sustainability, using advanced laundries and techniques that minimise waste and water usage. We’ve also introduced a repair service at AllSaints, which could extend to our denim in the future. And with our clothing rental service, we’re taking another step towards a more circular approach. Circularity is still a work in progress, but it’s one we’re excited to be a part of.

How do you keep yourself informed about the latest fabric/fibre/chemistry developments? Are there any that you’re particularly excited about? 

I meet with fabric suppliers and mills regularly in our east London studio, they are the heart of innovation really! They’re constantly developing new fibres, fabrics and treatments. I’m always in awe of their knowledge and expertise and take in every bit of information like a sponge. These conversations not only keep me informed but also inspire my design direction, giving me fresh ideas for each collection.

Cotton remains a staple for me, it’s humble but incredibly versatile. I’m particularly excited about the evolution of rigid vintage fabrics. In the past, achieving that authentic vintage look meant using heavy, rigid stiff denim. Today, you can capture the same aesthetic with softer, lighter fabrics without compromising on comfort.

Realteks’ NAIA (Eastman) fibre-blended fabrics are an exciting development. Made from responsibly sourced wood pulp and consumer waste, Eastman NAIA offers a soft, Tencel-like feel with added shine and brightness. I’m also impressed by the growing number of mills introducing biodegradable denim concepts; imagine a future where nothing ends up in landfill! What really excites me, though, is when mills approach sustainability holistically – using regenerative energy, reducing water usage and eliminating virgin cotton altogether. These forward-thinking practices are exactly what we need.

What are you looking forward to the most?

Spring and summer! Even though I love designing the autumn collection the most, it’s time for some sunshine here in the UK! 

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