Playing to its own fashion rhythm
Claudiu Ciubotaru, marketing director at Bucharest-based denim brand No44, says the Romanian market is maturing, with demand shifting towards timeless, well-made pieces
Can you tell us a bit about how the brand started and what the inspiration was?
No44 was created to reimagine denim as something both timeless and intentional. Sharp cuts, relaxed styles, and a strong focus on sustainability. It's a modern classic, made to move with you and crafted to last. The brand celebrates individuality and strength without chasing trends. With every project, campaign, and product, we aim to bring that vision to life through storytelling. Our goal is to make sure everything we share reflects the purpose behind each pair of jeans: quality, character and a quiet confidence. No44 isn’t just about fit, it’s about how the right pair makes you feel. Honest materials, and no compromise on ethics or aesthetics.
How did the partnership with ISKO begin and what inspired No44 Renew? How easy or difficult was it to collect and recycle used jeans?
Our partnership with ISKO began naturally. We were already using their fabrics and shared a common approach to sustainability and innovation. The first major project we launched together was Rethinking Denim, which involved collecting denim from both customers and non-customers, as well as production scraps. ISKO then developed a bespoke recycled fabric using those materials. That collaboration led to the launch of our Rei Jeans, made with this new fabric, our most considered and resource-conscious design to date.
Building on that, we launched No44 Renew, a programme that gives worn No44 jeans a second life through repair, customisation and resale. Customers return their pre-loved jeans and receive 20% off their next purchase. If the jeans are in good condition, they go through a professional renewal process at Martelli Romania (part of the Elleti Group). This includes ozone washing, rinsing with peppermint oil and nebule-based cleaning, techniques that reduce water use while extending fabric life.
When jeans are beyond repair, we partner with Re&Up to recycle them into Next-Gen fibres. This guarantees that nothing goes to waste and every pair contributes to a more circular future. Collecting jeans was a new challenge at first, as we had to change how people view ownership and waste. But once the idea clicked, the response was incredibly positive. No44 Renew isn’t just a sustainability project, it’s a movement toward redefining the lifecycle of denim.
Can you tell us about how you work with your supply chain partners, and what you value in them?
We collaborate with a group of trusted partners who are deeply involved in how our jeans are developed, made, and renewed. Each one plays a clear and unique role in helping us stay aligned with our values of quality, sustainability and innovation.We work with ISKO on fabric innovation and special projects, especially those focused on recycled and responsible denim development. Saitex supplies us with regenerative cotton fabrics and supports our shift toward lower-impact sourcing. Martelli Romania, part of the Elleti Group, handles garment production with advanced washing and finishing processes, including those used in our No44 Renew program. All Denims is a key partner for both production and product development, and we're currently working with them on a new project called Patch&Play, which invites customers to extend the life of their jeans creatively from home.
What we value most in these relationships is a shared vision. These aren’t transactional suppliers, they’re collaborators who believe in circular fashion, responsible manufacturing, and doing things with intention. Every product we create is the result of real teamwork, and that makes all the difference. We also value the human side: people who care about what they make, who take pride in every detail, and who aren’t afraid to experiment with us. Transparency, responsiveness and shared values are non-negotiables.
To what extent does Romania have its own fashion sense, who is the typical No44 customer?
Romania absolutely has its own fashion rhythm. There’s a growing appreciation for quality, individuality and style that feels effortless. You can see a clear shift toward timeless, well-made pieces that don’t chase trends.
Our customers, whether in Romania or abroad, are women who care about how clothes make them feel, not just how they look. The typical No44 customer reflects that mindset. She’s urban, thoughtful and style-aware. She doesn’t need loud logos or fast-fashion drops to express herself. She cares about where and how her clothes are made. She chooses pieces that last, in both quality and meaning. For her, denim isn’t just something to wear. It’s part of her lifestyle, and she wants it to feel like it was made with her in mind.
How do you see the denim market developing in Romania, which styles are most popular?
The denim market in Romania is maturing. We’re seeing a clear shift from trend-driven buying to more conscious consumption. Customers are moving away from fast fashion and instead looking for quality, versatility and timeless design. There’s a stronger awareness around fit, fabrication and how denim feels throughout the day - not just how it looks in a photo.
Right now, straight-leg jeans are one of the most popular styles among Romanian women. They’re easy to dress up or down and feel effortless. High-waisted cuts also remain a go-to, offering both comfort and structure. We’ve also noticed a rise in demand for relaxed wide-leg and barrel-leg silhouettes, especially among younger customers who are drawn to more expressive, oversized fits. Pieces like our VB Legend 2.0 or Crossover Jean consistently perform well because they strike that balance between statement and everyday wear.
At the same time, there’s growing interest in pieces with a story, whether that means garments made from regenerative cotton, revived through No44 Renew, or recycled with Rethinking Denim and Re&Up. The market is still discovering what slow fashion can look like in practice, but we’re seeing that once people try it, they don’t want to go back.
Which styles of jeans are your personal favourites?
Since No44 is a womenswear brand, I can’t wear most of the collection myself, but there are a few pieces that I genuinely love and actually keep in my own wardrobe. The Rei Jeans are one of them; clean, relaxed and designed with a circular mindset, which makes them feel even more meaningful. The Crossover Jean is another favourite. I love how subtle but distinctive the front detail is. It feels unisex without trying to be, and it fits into my everyday looks really well.
There are also a couple of styles in our upcoming June 15 collection that I’ve already claimed for myself. I won’t say too much yet, but we’re incredibly proud of what we’ve made. The campaign, the styling, the energy. And I can’t wait for everyone to see it.
How do your trips to trade shows such as Kingpins (or general travel) inspire you?
Trade shows are always energising. They’re not just about finding fabrics, they’re about meeting the people behind the innovation, seeing what’s next and getting a clearer sense of where the industry is heading. You leave with ideas, materials and a lot of inspiration. It’s rarely about chasing trends. It’s about spotting details that align with what we want to say as a brand.
This year, we’re also preparing for White Show Milan and CIFF Copenhagen. White is one of the most important platforms in Europe, perfect for a brand like ours. CIFF has a strong curatorial direction and a reputation for championing sustainability and emerging talent, so it feels like the right place to continue growing No44 internationally.
Travel in general plays a huge role in how we shape the brand. Whether it’s the way people wear denim in Paris or the street energy in Seoul, those impressions stay with you. Many of our campaigns begin with a mood or a moment captured while traveling. It’s a constant source of inspiration and perspective.
Are there any upcoming projects you can tell us about, and what is your vision for the brand over the next few years?
We’re getting ready to launch a new collection on June 15, and it marks an exciting moment for us. The fits, the details, the styling, it all feels like a new chapter. We’ve also taken a different direction with the campaign, and we genuinely can’t wait for people to see it. It’s still true to who we are, but more confident and expressive.
Alongside that, we’re launching Patch & Play, a creative project developed in partnership with AllDenims, one of our partners. The idea is simple: instead of throwing away damaged jeans, we want to empower people to repair and personalise them. The Patch & Play kit includes denim patches in different washes and textures, eco-friendly thread, no-sew adhesive, tools and a repair guide. Everything is packaged sustainably, with a note that thanks the customer for choosing to give their denim a longer life. Looking ahead, our vision for No44 stays rooted in intention. We want to grow, but only in ways that align with our values: slow, considered and always putting quality and care first. We’re continuing to explore circular design, meaningful partnerships, and new ways to invite customers into the creative process. Every step forward should feel like a step deeper into who we are.
