Gap builds on its indigo foundations
Jane Pattinson, senior vice-president and global head of design at Gap, explains how Gen Z and Millennials have influenced fits in its autumn campaign Better in Denim, and explains why the company’s social strategies are among the aspects she is most proud of.
What strategies do you use to keep relevant to younger generations, and what are you seeing in terms of how they feel about denim?
We’re constantly paying attention to how people are styling denim in real life, especially Gen Z and Millennials, who are so good at making trends their own. We’re seeing a lot of experimentation with proportions, low-rise fits and vintage-inspired washes. At Gap, we bring that into our design strategy by evolving the icons people love like our Long & Lean low-rise and pairing those with new knit silhouettes that feel right for today. It’s all about offering versatility and pieces that work across different lifestyles and moments.
More widely, how does denim fit into Gap as a brand; why is it so important?
Denim is the foundation of Gap – it’s what we’re known for and where we continue to evolve. From iconic jackets to reissued fits like the Long & Lean, denim carries both nostalgia and newness. That legacy pushes us forward with innovative silhouettes, washes and design details.
Thinking about some of Gap’s work with the supply chain, can you tell us how the Reimagining Industry to Support Equality (RISE) and the Personal Advancement & Career Enhancement (PACE) initiatives help you to empower workers?
The majority of people who make our clothes are women, many of whom face barriers like limited education, financial independence and workplace agency. In 2007, Gap Inc. launched PACE to help close that gap – providing life skills and training to help women in our supply chain reach their full potential.
Since then, PACE has impacted more than 1.6 million women and girls. PACE was just the beginning. In 2023, Gap Inc co-founded RISE – an industry-wide initiative now adopted by over 30 apparel brands. RISE brings together brands, manufacturers, unions and civil society groups to advance gender equity across our industry. Its programmes build upon PACE's legacy, providing training on the topics workers want and need, such as financial literacy, problem-solving, workplace rights and health.
These efforts are core to how we show up as a brand – helping create more opportunity and equity for the people who make our clothes. It’s a part of our work I’m especially proud of.
Who does good work in the supply chain?
We work with incredible partners across the globe who are doing inspiring things from using only reclaimed water in manufacturing to advancing more inclusive practices in the workplace. It’s a collective effort and we’re proud to work alongside partners who are setting a high bar for the industry.
Which new fibre blends or innovations in the sector have caught your eye recently?
There’s so much exciting work happening in denim right now. I’m particularly inspired by innovations like new dye techniques that significantly reduce water and chemical use, and blending cotton with Tencel to create the softness and drape you feel in our soft and ultra-soft denim. We’re constantly exploring ideas in our design process that let us deliver great product while staying responsible to the planet.
Why is the water strategy central to thinking at Gap?
Water is critical. Both to how we make product and to the communities behind it. From 2017–2023, Gap Inc.’s Women + Water Alliance with USAID helped 2.4 million people in India gain improved access to clean water and sanitation. We’re now continuing that work through the Women + Water Collaborative, part of the Water Resilience Coalition, focused on driving long-term impact in key sourcing regions.
On the manufacturing side, we partnered with Arvind Limited to launch the Global Water Innovation Center for Action, an open-source hub for water-saving technologies and best practices across the apparel industry.
These efforts support our 2030 goals: to replenish 100% of the water we use in manufacturing and operations, and to reach 5 million people with improved water access. It’s a long-term effort, but one we’re committed to through smart design, strong partnerships and local community engagement!
What can brands do to shelter and support their suppliers in the face of volatile markets, changing tariff regimes, etc?
I think it starts with treating suppliers like true partners. We’ve worked with many of ours for years, and those relationships matter, especially when things get unpredictable. Whether it’s navigating timelines, costs or new regulations, it’s about staying flexible and finding solutions together.
What can we expect next from Gap and GapStudio?
This fall, we’re leaning into newness with a focus on fresh fits and iconic throwbacks like the return of our low-rise Long & Lean silhouette. You’ll also see innovations in wash, texture and proportion that bring a modern edge to timeless staples. Our goal is to deliver denim that feels both rooted in heritage and relevant to how people want to dress right now.
Gap’s autumn campaign, ‘Better in Denim’ starring girl band Katseye (on our front cover), has been a viral hit. The advert was the number one search on Tiktok, “not just driving cultural conversations, but creating a cultural takeover”, according to group CEO Richard Dickson, with 20 million views in the first three days and 400 million a few weeks later. “It drives industry interest, which helps all of us,” he adds.
