The new Denim Authority
When in Tunisia, a visit to Denim Authority is not to be missed as it is one of the best ready-made garment manufacturers in the area, says Tilmann Wröbel who gives Inside Denim a near insider’s take on its story. Beyond the factory itself, its stellar team, he says, has ‘crazy perfect’ denim know-how.
Today it is my pleasure to introduce you to a great team and a fabulous facility, located in the north of Tunisia, a region known as “the horn”. But, before going any further, allow me to fill you in on its background with a brief overview of its place in the history of denim.
You might know, or remember, the famous British denim brand Lee Cooper, founded in 1908. It is Europe’s first actual denim brand. Throughout my own career I have been in contact with the brand for many years and my consultancy designed for Lee Cooper for over a decade. So I have first-hand knowledge through my own experience. In 1974, though British, Lee Cooper had a very French leaning. This was due to its strong subsidiary and warehouses located in the country, which extended even to the use of French to communicate, and inspired the company to build a denim factory in Tunisia. Its goal at the time was to make this facility a benchmark of denim manufacturing in the area.
This is why Lee Cooper came to name this factory Denim Authority. It was an active player in the heyday of European denim brands and rose to become a flourishing manufacturer of jeans and slacks for the brand.
Years later, when Lee Cooper underwent radical structural changes, its owners took drastic decisions, and would pivot the brand to a purely licensing business. This left Denim Authority and its management team in a state of limbo in Tunisia. When I was working for the brand during these times of change, the work environment was very difficult for all involved.
Who would have thought at that time that Denim Authority would become the first rate RMG or ready-made garment manufacturer it is today? In fact, Hatem Daoud, Ghassen Azouz and Patrice Chesi, did. They are the three associates that masterminded the Denim Authority’s rebirth in 2011. They are, respectively, general manager, factory manager and styling manager.
Those early days under new ownership were far from easy for the management team. The company was in a shaky financial condition, had stocks of unused and random raw materials on hand, and a new reputation to build. It was in a critical state in 2011.
Determined and dedicated, the new owners kept the faith and with the help of Christian Rollandin, who came on board as sales manager, the factory was able to go from 900,000 pieces manufactured in 2011 to 1.5 million in 2022. Their target is now to reach 2.5 million pieces by 2027.
Looking forward
Now let’s move on to the current context to see what the company is now doing to reach its 2027 goal. Denim Authority cuts, sews, washes and finishes, in its own laundry. The laundry is where “style-master” Patrice Chesi applies his artistry. These are on show at the trade fairs, including Bluezone and Kingpins, where the company exhibits its goods twice yearly.
Among its many certificates, Denim Authority is GOTS approved and referenced by the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI). These are not that common for RMG factories. They confirm and validate the team’s commitment to sustainability in denim manufacturing. These span a strong focus on laser treatments, avoiding the use of pumice stones and permanganate, to the progressive switch to using only sustainable products and liquids. In the laundry, its specialists are working on wash developments that reduce water consumption by 75%. They have high goals.
Topping these green wet processing methods, are Denim Authority’s green energy projects. The company has launched a study to draw its energy from photovoltaic panels. It also has an energy cogeneration project in which thermal and mechanical energy is generated in a single operation.
These sustainable developments and targets, as much as great product and fast follow-up, have enabled the team to attract new clients such as Scotch & Soda, Nudie, Armed Angels, Baldessarini, Kaporal, The Kooples, MAC, G-Star, Paul Smith, to name just a few.
To continue to build a sustainable business in the long term, and to grow along with its many denim brand partners, Denim Authority has a precise action plan. It recently acquired a third laser machine from Jeanologia, a second automatic cutting table from Lectra, and an ozone machine from Tonello. A new extension of the fabric laboratory has been built, and a 2,700m2 extension of the finishing zone will be up and running this month.
I see this evolution as an overall great achievement when reflecting on what the company has gone through. It is a true success story and definitely worth the trip to Tunisia or to a Denim Authority booth at any of the upcoming denim trade fairs in Europe. You will not regret it.
Denim Authority samples in various fades.
All Photos: Denim Authority
