Not so limited
If you have never been to Bangladesh, you should be prepared to see quite a difference between its former reputation and expectations and today’s reality. A telling example is the Denim Expert Ltd’s ready-made garment factory in Chittagong.
Indeed, between the age-old image we might have had of a country of sweatshops, and the reality of denim manufacturing in Bangladesh today, this country has a surprise for you. Fact is, today Bangladesh is the most scrutinised and monitored denim manufacturing destination one can find in the world. Personally, I have seen more denim sweatshops in dismal and dark suburban zones in Europe, which you don’t want to hear about, than in Bangladesh. But that is another story.
Today I would like to take you to DEL, the name insiders use to refer to Denim Expert Limited. And when talking about Denim Expert Ltd, we have to speak about its visionary founder, the man, the myth, Mostafiz Uddin.
The first time I heard of Mostafiz was around 2011. It was the day that my friend Sandeep Agarwal, of Denim & Jeans, and a French sales agent whose showroom was close to my studio, introduced me to him. He was, so I understood, a must-know in the industry. I instantly realised that he was a “developer”, a “maker” — he had so many projects a minute that it was almost a challenge to follow him.
Mostafiz grew up in Bangladesh, and right from his youth he has promoted his country and sought to enhance awareness of its know-how. And, yes, he does that well. I could write a thousand lines on the many achievements he has instigated for his homeland, but let’s focus here on his achievements in manufacturing jeans.
Mostafiz began working for the local textile industry as an agent. In denim, and in his eyes, the Bangladesh sourcing landscape was not at the level it should be. This led him to create the Denim Expert Ltd factory that opened in 2009. DEL is situated in the city of Chittagong, south of Dhaka. It is a city well-known for its “ship-cutting services” with its proximity to the large Karnaphuli river delta, but it also has several areas dedicated to manufacturing, which is where DEL first opened. The facility was built in 2008 according to high security standards with regards to earthquake resistance and fire safety systems. It also has a state-of-the-art water treatment plant. One of the company’s targets is to reuse 100% of its water, and shift to solar power. In front of the DEL building, one can see flowers growing and in the pond many kinds of fish swimming in the cleaned and treated water released by the plant. Yes, on arrival at the factory, it is obvious that special love and vision have been bestowed upon the infrastructure. And not only on the infrastructure.
The company employs slightly more than 2,000 workers, which is not a lot by Bangladesh standards. The factory is set up to process high quantity orders (per style) but can also take on smaller minimum order quantities (MOQs) for special designs and sophisticated washes. This is where Mostafiz’s hands-on and down-to-earth know-how shines through. He loves to spend time in the laundry and personally develops elaborate washes. A bandana wrapped around his head, grinding machine in hand, he indulges his passion for the world of denim and the complex washes he has become famous for. The factory has a full array of denim-making equipment, including, of course, its own laundry.
But there is more. In Bangladesh, a factory plays an important role with regards to the health of its workers and managers. Compared to European standards, the sickbay at DEL is large, and the medical team does truly take care of the staff’s health. During covid, when workers were not allowed to go to their factories, it was pretty much akin to not allowing them to see their doctors. The commitment of DEL and its sickbay team goes above and beyond average such services. Numerous workers are treated on site, and many were able to have major hospital surgeries financed by the company.
On a similar note, and in line with Mostafiz’s motto “people before business”, DEL was the first factory in Bangladesh to offer a “trans-inclusive” environment, hiring transgender employees. This shows that people count at DEL.
With regards to production, many major international retailers and brands are DEL clients. Buyers and designers are often invited to visit the company’s Innovation Room. This space, accessed only via a biometric fingertip recognition system, is where DEL stores and exhibits its samples, which number in the few thousands, with varied fit, style, fabric and wash combos. It is DEL’s treasure trove, or holy grail.
In addition, Denim Expert Ltd participates in many global causes. It joined the Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) project created by International Finance Corporation (IFC) in Bangladesh. DEL is also a member of the International Apparel Federation (IAF), the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), ZDHC, and the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC). As I write, more may be added.
Surprised? Not me. Where there’s a will, there’s a way. Ultimately, it is always a matter of people. Good people.
Workers at the DEL denim making facility.
PHOTO: DEL / Tilmann Wröbel
