A greener shade of blue
A year on from the inauguration of BluConnection’s new indigo facility, we find out about how clean production and plant-based auxiliaries can help companies ‘walk the talk’ with a lighter footprint.
As it marks its first anniversary this October, the 30-metre butterfly wall at BluConnection’s new facility in Singapore welcomes its latest insect guests, homing in on the tailored array of pollinating plant species. The wall is a small reflection of the ‘green’ planning that went into the factory conversion, one whose execution is such that the chemicals maker believes it could be used as a blueprint for similar Singaporean factory upgrades.
The decision to relocate was to offer purified pre-reduced indigo with the lowest aniline content possible from a state-of-the-art indigo hydrogenation facility, with added flexibility and an increased capacity. Founders Peter Zinser, Alexander Bock and Andreas Mendel took the opportunity to build in carbon and waste reduction and efficiency from the ground up. There are solar panels on the roof, rainwater is recovered and the facility is embedded into a garden with pond and gazebo, contributing to a positive working environment as well as the microclimate. “The footprint we leave in this world is becoming more and more important, and in Europe, new regulations will make it a focus for the entire supply chain,” explains Alexander Bock. “What is our contribution? We have a minimum-to-no carbon footprint. We have zero discharge. At this point in time, we are pretty confident that this facility is as good as it can be.”
Reducing the load
BluConnection’s sole focus is pre-reduced synthetic indigo and its auxiliaries for the denim sector, having launched in 2009 with a 30% pre-reduced indigo, DenimBlu30, as its key product. Although synthetic indigos have been in the market for more than 125 years – being first commercialised by Germany’s BASF at the end of the 19th century – the pre-reduced versions were not introduced until 1993. The global market for indigo for denim is made up of around 30% pre-reduced and 70% powder/granules, according to estimates, although this rises to about 60% pre-reduced if China is discounted.
Indigo’s appeal is still unrivalled, says Mr Bock – being the only synthetic colour that uses an identical molecular structure to its natural form and the only one that is sold by the number of molecules. “It has an unmatched tinctorial strength, it’s a copy of nature and it’s been proven safe for many years,” he adds.
However, only the reduced form of indigo can bind to the cotton fibre; it needs to go through a chemical reduction using caustic soda and a reducing agent, the most common of which is hydrosulfite. By buying indigo in a pre-reduced state – which is achieved by processing it with hydrogen – the dyehouses or mills lessen the amount of hydrosulfite needed. For instance, DenimBlu30 allows a saving of 40-70% sodium hydrosulfite and a 35-60% saving of caustic soda, according to BluConnection.
“There is nothing better than pre-reduced indigo in the market as far as performance and environmental footprint is concerned,” says Mr Bock. “When this was invented, it was a big step forward. The hydrogen gas is completely absorbed in the process, it leaves no other byproduct. It allows denim mills to have more control, and to have less colour and a lower pH in the wastewater, making it is easier to treat.”
Turning to nature
The chemicals industry had been looking for alternatives to the difficult-to-dispose-of hydrosulfite, or at least reduce its levels, for many years. “There have been multiple attempts to change the chemistry with other products which didn’t work, because they were not commercially feasible or not technically feasible, or they didn’t produce the right denim shade, the reproducibility was poor, and so on. No alternative to hydrosulfite worked.”
Looking to nature to clean up the process felt like a “logical next step” and three years ago BluConnection teamed up with a European university to study a raw material option derived from the food industry. It found the resulting product, BluWit, delivered impressive results. In production trials at denim mills using BluWit as a reducing agent led to 95% sulfite-free effluent with 60% less salt, and it reduced chemical oxygen demand (COD) by 5%. In wastewater, total dissolved solids were around 60% lower than normal. The plant-based reducing agent is said to be odourless, biodegradable and easy to handle. “This is the first time there's an alternative that produces authentic denim,” says Mr Bock. “You can make a dark shade and have a progressive wash tone, and it’s reproducible. This is a breakthrough in the concept of dyeing indigo.”
Supply chain cohesion
At Kingpins Amsterdam 2022, Italian chemicals maker Officina39 expanded its Aqualess mission with ‘Just One Step Process’, which, in collaboration with BluConnection and denim mill Naveena, combined several solutions to save time, energy and water. It claimed the combination of products made it possible to place a raw garment in the machine and produce a vintage effect, ready to be dried. Using DenimBlu30 and BluWit – which was officially launched in April 2022 – boosted the efficiency, making it easier to neutralise the garment, reducing time and water consumption by 50%, they said. “We are constantly working on reducing the number of processes and washes that are traditionally applied in garment finishing,” Andrea Venier, Officina’s CEO, told Inside Denim at the fair.
Working alongside supply chain partners like Officina39 is something that happens often but, like many downstream suppliers, BluConnection is not often namechecked, says Mr Bock. “We are regularly collaborating with our suppliers, partners and customers, for instance Tonello, Candiani or Naveena. It was the combination of our products that made the difference for Just One Step, and Andrea wanted to credit us,” he explains.
QR code traceability
The European Commission is forging ahead with its circular and green ambitions, with the introduction of various rules and legislation by 2030 that will mean brands and fashion companies will be required not only to look at the circularity of their products but also take more responsibility for their supply chain and be transparent in their decision making.
Underpinned by the European Green Deal, the Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, the Extended Producer Responsibility Scheme, Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation and Digital Product Passports are set to shake up the sector.
Even before these regulations were announced, BluConnection launched a hangtag and QR system that details the composition of its products, energy and water consumption as well as any impurities generated. This can be combined with Eco Passports and test results, offering a route to transparency. Adding the new factory’s footprint means the carbon and water credentials are further improved. “We can do a full disclosure of everything – where our raw materials come from, what went into our products, how much water, how much energy. With the new regulations coming up, brands will be forced to look into this and make a conscious choice about who they work with,” adds Mr Bock.
He believes it is not difficult or costly to adopt these tools, nor to swap to plant-based reducing agents and it is more a question of trying to alter mindsets and the effort needed to instigate the changes. When asked what brands demand of suppliers, Mr Bock counters, “We want them to walk their talk. They ask for sustainable solutions. We have the products, we have the expertise and we are here to support. With our new facility we are set for the future. With our commitment to achieve net zero in 2030 we are contributing to the society in Singapore and the indigo world.”
The butterfly wall has been designed to attract 36 species, with 50 types of plants. The factory is surrounded by multi-tiered vegetation and ponds.
All photos: BLUCONNECTION
