Cotton fibre length creates setback for Dawn Denim
When Dawn denim co-founder Marian von Rappard (pictured) invested in organic cotton from Tanzania, he believed he was helping to fund a much-needed commodity and make his jeans production lower impact.
The German brand committed to buying 53 tonnes – the minimum needed to make yarns – and the company’s “biggest milestone in recent years”.
“Our mission is to influence ecological and social grievances along our entire supply chain. To achieve this, we want and need to build personal relationships with all stages of the supply chain, from growing the cotton to our own production in Vietnam,” said Mr von Rappard in a blog.
However, the problems surfaced in testing, as quality problems during the weaving and dyeing process. While the long staple is suitable for high-end t-shirts, shirting and bedding, it did not lend itself to denim. “I did not even consider the possibility that the staple length of the cotton from Tanzania is not suitable for our jeans,” he said.
The brand will now “go back to square one” on its path to becoming more sustainable. “Pioneering work requires a lot of getting back up again, because the path is paved by many hurdles and unexpected setbacks,” Mr von Rappard added.
Dawn Denim was launched in 2015 and has its own factory in Vietnam. It was founded on a belief that companies can do business in "a more responsible, environmentally friendly and ethical way, share their successes with everyone involved and produce fair jeans".
Inside Denim ‘Jean Genie’ Towonda Vaughns joined the brand this summer as head of product.
Image credit: Dawn Denim website
