Biomaterial maker tests natural indigo

05/03/2025
Biomaterial maker tests natural indigo
2025 is slated to be a big year for Istanbul-based biotechnology start-up Gozen. It officially launched its leather alternative LunaForm at Première Vision; the innovative biomaterial was used to make a maxi bathrobe cape by Kering-owned Balenciaga; and it has plans to increase production capacity.

Gozen presented three distinct Lunaform collections at PV Paris, including a series dyed using natural indigo. The other two aesthetics highlighted the texture and transparency its material can achieve.

Lunaform is made from nanocellulose and manufactured through a “controlled” fermentation process developed by the start-up and which it calls BioCraft Technology. Microorganisms thus produce the material in dishes that define the size of the resulting Lunaform panels (120 cm x 120 cm), Ece Gozen, founder and CEO, told Inside Denim. The manufacturing, or growing process, takes just seven days, she says, adding that this is faster than making leather. It is during the drying phase that the company is able to create the natural fibrous or grainy texture. A backing fabric is bonded to the biomaterial sheets, and its composition will depend on application, she said.

The design-led start-up Ms Gozen founded in 2022 operates a 40,000 square foot facility in Istanbul that can produce some 150,000 square feet of material per year currently. The company has announced it has the potential to scale to up to 1 million square feet of material per year at full utilisation, representing some 40,000 garments.