Browse Dialogue 2021 - insidedenim: Global denim industry news and vie

From seeing local technical skills diminish as production moved overseas in the 1990s, Alessio says companies are now understanding their value and there is an acute need to pass these skills onto the younger generation before they are lost. An exciting collaboration that will come to fruition next year will show how patternmakers, young designers, students and artists can work together to produce a collection suitable for ‘climate change’.

Designers and consultants Malin Ekengren, Miles Johnson and Sue Barrett have been friends for many years. They discuss how the industry is changing, how the pandemic has shifted the goalposts and how they’d like to see things develop in the future.

Investment in new technologies and a sharp focus on R&D have contributed to Advance Denim’s success, according to general manager Amy Wang – helping it to achieve double-digit growth for over a decade.

Alberto Candiani, the president of Italy’s Candiani, believes the pandemic could lead to sustainable change, but that global regulations are necessary. He says compostability should be prioritised when it comes to tackling waste, and is proud of the mill’s advances with Coreva, a world first in denim fabric innovation.

The supply chain needs the flexibility and backing to invest in research and technology, if it is to deliver the improvements future consumers will demand, says the CEO of jeans maker Elleti. The Italian group has invested in wash technlogies that will help it to deliver greener product through quicker and safer production processes, and will roll these out across its facilities.

Artist Ian Berry immerses himself in the creative process to produce world-renowned artworks using denim as his medium.

Denim expert Piero Turk sees further potential in ozone and recycled fibres but wishes there was a greater understanding of the people and processes behind clothing manufacture. He works hard on his collaborations with some of the leading brands, mills and suppliers – but makes sure he also takes time out to relax.

From discovering ozone in Turkey with Wrangler, to creating performance denim lines using cosmetic oils, Dalia Benefatto has approached the industry through the curious vision of a chemist. She tells students that they have power to shape the future, and hopes that one day our garments will follow nature’s cycle - even ending up as fertiliser, instead of landfill.

Ikeme Eshemokhai in conversation with Hiro Yoshikawa, founder of Washi Jeans. Mr Yoshikawa understands the value of craftsmanship, hard work and patience: his new jeans collection, created using traditional Japanese washi paper, has been 21 years in the making.

The founder of UK brand Flax & Loom has a long history in the denim industry, creating street brands such as Road in the 1980s. He is fed up with the amount of greenwashing, and hopes consumers soon make the connection between low price, poor quality and exploitative labour conditions.

As the premium Italian jeans brand prepares to celebrate four decades in business, its CEO Matteo Sinigaglia tells Inside Denim the key to longevity is consistency and authenticity.

Kerry Bannigan, founder of the Conscious Fashion Campaign, believes the denim industry can be a key driver of social, economic and environmental change through its adoption of the Sustainable Development Goals.

New York-based brand Oak & Acorn - Only for the Rebelles pays homage to the untold story of the Indigenous American & the enslaved Africans’ contributions that have shaped American manufacturing and denim. Founder Miko Underwood explains how she expresses her vision through her designs and why she feels now is the right time to educate and inspire to drive positive change.

The CEO of DenimX has seen a change in mindset since he started the upcycling business. Consumers and manufacturers are increasingly looking for products and materials that communicate a story. Imperfections are valued because they show the item has been made through a sustainable process.

The pandemic has taught us we can manage with less, says the denim design manager at Scotch & Soda. The Dutch retailer is investing in its higher-volume items, as these have the biggest impact, and is in the process of reworking its denim essentials to make all fabrics and washes ‘responsible’.

The man behind the Long John denim blog is advising brands, mills and stores on new ways to reach their audiences, with many shops temporarily closed because of the pandemic.

Now is a good time to explore new areas of finishing and develop novel techniques, according to Luca Braschi from denim consultancy Blue Alchemy.

The managing director of Italy-based chemicals company Officina+39 has witnessed its customers rethink business models and investigate new technologies and innovations.

Mohsin Sajid has worked as a denim designer and consultant for 20 years. In recent years he has added lecturer and tutor to his list of roles.

James Bartle, CEO of Australia’s Outland Denim, believes manufacturers and brands should put competition aside to tackle the industry’s big problems...

The managing director of denim producer KG Fabriks believes upskilled workers can...

The show manager of Denim Première Vision explains how his team has had to adapt to make sure that the vital relationships between exhibitors and buyers can flourish in difficult circumstances.