Successful conclusion to GenovaJeans
Genova Jeans Week (October 1 to 6), a celebration of all things denim through the medium of art and culture, has concluded in the Italian city, after a busy schedule of workshops, tours, art, seminars and parties.
The narrow, winding streets created a scenic backdrop for the Jeans Trail, with denim-related installations by local and international artists, including Ian Berry’s Garibaldi portrait in Museo del Risorgimento and Bruno Catalano’s statues.
Italy-based laundry group Elleti lent significant pieces from its denim archive to a space in the university library, while students created denim garments and local children made denim ‘fish’ to decorate the city.
As well as a focus on history – with the city lending its name to ‘jeans’ after indigo-dyed trousers shipped from the port in the 16th century – organisers showed the story behind modern jeans-making, highlighting some of the work being done to lower the impact of manufacturing, in the Jeans Backstage.
Twelve companies were selected to represent various stages of the supply chain, including cellulose specialist Lenzing, chemicals company Officina39, garment manufacturer Aquarelle, and laundry and cut-and-sew group Fimatex.
Aquarelle, part of the Mauritius-based conglomerate Ciel Group, presented its LEED Platinum-rated laundry in India, which works with clients including Calvin Klein Jeans. It has recently developed One Cup of Water and Zero Water wash techniques, and offers Archroma’s aniline-free indigo dyeing.
Water-saving washing was also a priority at Fimatex, which operates facilities in Italy and Romania. Its Italian base is home to its research and development department, which works with brands including Prada. It also owns a high-end denim brand, Don The Fuller.
The main seminar revolved around the themes of a circular economy and upcycling, with speakers including Matteo Ward, CEO of design consultancy WRAD; Simon Giuliani, Candiani Denim’s marketing and sustainability director (and Inside Denim’s latest Guest Comment), Alfio Fontana from Humana People to People Italia, and Lenzing’s Carlo Covini.
Mr Covini explained the fibre producer’s pilot project that involves wrapping an Austrain glacier with a non-woven of its fibres, in a bid to move away from synthetic geotextiles that might release microplastics. The material will then be recycled into white denim, with the addition of cotton, through Candiani Denim.
Mr Giuliani explained how the whole production model should be rethought to towards a system that makes to order. The northern Italian mill has worked with Humana to Humana Italy to respin fibres from donated clothing.
Genova Jeans organisers were keen to present a well-rounded programme, with a view to potentially adding in a more “business orientated” element next year.
