Officina’s collaborative novelties include EasyNdigo dye process

30/04/2024
Officina’s collaborative novelties include EasyNdigo dye process
Italian chemicals manufacturer Officina39 has launched a dyeing technique, working in collaboration with indigo producer BluConnection and technology maker Tonello, that uses a “push and pull” mechanism to add colour to garments inside a drum.

The “pull” mechanism works to “pull” indigo onto the fibres, using a wetting and levelling agent called Deterwet EasyNdigo. This acts as a solubiliser, ensuring reproducibility and low-foaming, reducing dye migration during drying. The process also involves the dispersing agent Dispersolo EasyNdigo, which has diffusion-accelerating properties, allowing for a reduction in time and temperature of the dyeing process without compromising lightfastness, said the company.

The “push” mechanism works on dye bath to “push” the indigo into the fibres using a compound named Base EasyNdigo and pre-reduced indigo DenimBlu30 by BluConnection. This method achieves a bright and deep indigo colour, improves wash and rubbing fastness, enhances levelness, and is formaldehyde-free. 

Alice Tonello, marketing and R&D director at Tonello, said: “Collaborations are extremely important. That’s why we’ve joined forces with Officina39, whose EasyNdigo chemical package perfectly complements our DyeMate technology.” [We will outline Tonello’s new developments in a separate story.]

Officina39 had several other developments on display at denim trade show Kingpins Amsterdam.

Pixel Art is inspired by the indigenous painting techniques of Australian Aboriginals. “The idea is to obtain coloured dots,” Officina39’s CEO, Andrea Venier, told Inside Denim. “We apply a chemical that blocks the colour, then we dye with Recycrom [its range of pigment powders using waste textile fibres], then we apply the dots with spray gun. We bleach with our Smart Bleach, which replaces potassium permanganate, then we fix the colour. Usually, when you block the colour, the resin gives a dull look, but here the innovation provides for very bright colours.” 

Other new techniques on show included Carving Effect, obtained by dyeing and then blocking, and Inside Out, where darker colours can be obtained in the centre of the garment. The Eclectic Nomad collection, a result of a partnership with LA-based washing specialists SFI and Artistic Milliners, is a celebration of “nature’s processes of weathering and wear” through sun and water effects. The collection was made using Officina39’s Aqualess Mission, Smart Bleach, Remover IND/J-N, Oz-One Powder and Recycrom Ready To Dye.