Chemicals industry needs freeing from extra certification – Transformers’ panel

14/09/2021
Chemicals industry needs freeing from extra certification – Transformers’ panel
While it has been discussed for years, until there is alignment on regulation for the textiles chemicals industry, time and money will be wasted on multiple certifications that could be better spent advancing the industry’s sustainability goals.

That was one message to come out of a panel discussing Chemicals in Denim, featuring Andrea Vernier, managing director of Officina+39; Roberto Camera, CEO of Nearchimica; and Alberto di Conti from Rudolf, as part of Transformers ED Pakistan edition. 

Mr de Conti and Mr Camera explained manpower and energy is taken up by meeting multiple certifications, compared with the automotive industry, for instance, that is governed by one set of strict rules. “The day we manage to free these resources and put them into real R&D, we will progress further,” said Mr de Conti.

He added that rather than any big leaps in innovation, incremental improvements of existing chemistry was more likely in the short term, given the effects of the pandemic. “The global apparel market is in survival mode, going through an unexpected transition. We feel many brands and retailers aren’t open to talking about innovation just yet, the focus is on optimising what exists already, and making it better from an environmental perspective.”


Mr Camera said his company had been looking into developing products like enzymes, that can create similar effects on denim with a lower impact, but the idea of ‘zero’ chemistry was misinformed. “What’s the cost of making denim without chemicals? We’d go back to more mechanical actions for abrasion, like scrapings, using more energy - this would not bear well on the lifecycle assessment.” He added that there had been a lot of transition and changes over the last few years, and younger people should approach the industry with an open mind. 

Similarly, Mr Vernier hopes to include young designers at the start of research, to change the approach from a linear one to more of a creative and circular way of thinking, and to return to the “beautiful products” that have been missing for 10 years. “Imagine what you can do, as a young designer using modern technologies - this gives you power. Imagination should not have limits,” he said.

Transformers ED continues on September 15 and 16, from 11am-2pm UK time. The series focuses on teaching young people and students about the industry. This edition is focused on Pakistan, but all are welcome to join.