Vogue signals renewable fashion’s moment is now
In an article published on American Vogue’s website in early January, writer Luke Leitch highlighted the of the moment desirability - and sustainability - of “old school” in-house repairs. (Mr Leitch described contemporary brands who offer such a service as “enlightened”.)
Recalling his conversation with Hermès artistic director, Pierre-Alexis Dumas (great-great-great grandson of Hermès founder, Thierry Hermès), for Vogue’s 2020 September issue, Mr Leitch quoted Mr Dumas: “I remember my grandfather tell me as a kid that ‘luxury is that which you can repair’. And he told me that back in the ‘60s, the ‘70s - back when people didn’t care about repairing.
“Today we understand how important it is because you don’t waste. When you think my bag needs a good repair, but it can be repaired and continues to live alongside me, that’s a wonderful feeling.”
In his article, Mr Leitch described the apparent “rise of conspicuous non-consumption” as a trend which has been “a long time coming”. He suggests that responsibly building repairability into clothing and accessories “does indeed unlock the ‘wonderful feeling’ that fashion has been contorting itself to rediscover the source of.”
Spotlighting luxury Italian fashion brand Brunello Cucinelli, which provides free lifetime repairs, as the “most notable” of such services, Mr Leitch also featured British heritage shoemaker Tricker’s in his write up.
Every Thursday, the Tricker’s Instagram feed (@trickers_shoes) focuses on one of the “100 or so” repair overhauls that customers send in each month. According to the Tricker’s factory repair manager, the oldest pair of shoes the manager has worked on so far was “over 40 years old”.
“Tricker’s might be heavier than your average pair of sneakers, but their footprint is infinitely lighter,” Mr Leitch wrote.
The writer concluded with thoughts on how his own pair of “worn through at both knees” Levi’s Lot 01 jeans (“cut in deadstock Cone Mills denim”) were in need of refurbishment by his “local repair and alterations pro Tony” - just as soon as Tony himself had mended from a bout of covid-19.
Image: Hiut Denim via Instagram.
