Transformers' Truth Series delves into waste & circularity
16/03/2022
Karla Magruder launched the discussion on the flow of materials and logistics of waste, the fundamentals of a circular ecosystem.
For Ann Runnel, at Reverse Resources, the main missing link in the system is lack of data and information. “Recyclers need to have access to critical information on waste so that they can know what to do with it.” Scaling up recycling, she said, is not a technical problem, as the recycling infrastructure is up and running, but an information one.
From her experience in working for a circular jeans brand, HNST sustainability & product manager Eva Engelen explained to the audience how the brand collects used jeans from its customers and from other brands. The main learning it has drawn from studying the different products it collects is that “we need to keep items of clothing as monomaterial as possible,” she said. “This is the way to make achieve high quality recycled yarns that are strong enough to be reused.” This research has inspired the brand to redesign its products by choosing components that enable recycling.
Lenzing executive Michael Kininmonth noted that “circularity requires a systemic change across the entire value chain.” He also pointed out that “established companies, like Lenzing, can play a key role as they have the technical knowledge to scale.”
The discussion also touched on the role of regulation and certification. The panellists mentioned that certifications do not always indicate what type of waste is found in recycled content. This is another shortcoming in the current system as it means no distinction is made between post-industrial and post-consumer textiles, or even between used plastics and textiles for recycled polyester.
They are hoping that regulations will speed up the transition to a circular system. “No true progress will be made without regulations,” said Mr Kinenmonth. “Regulation is the missing piece of the puzzle to scale circularity, to ensure transparency and to create a level playing field for brands that seek to achieve circularity versus those that continue to apply a linear economy,” said Ms Engelen.
The Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) law that the European Union is said to be preparing could change the landscape, if the law is well designed. Ms Runnel voiced concern over regulations implemented by administrations that do not fully understand the technicalities of recycling used textiles. Some waste management regulations give too much power to waste traders she noted.
Karla Magruder closed the discussion by insisting on the importance of working together to make genuine progress.
The next Truth Series talk will cover carbon emissions management and will be held on May 3rd, 2022
Image: Transformers Foundation
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