The pigment is added in a one-step spun-dyeing process, which Lenzing global business development director Tricia Carey described as a “true innovation”.

She said: “What defines denim is the indigo, but there are so many process steps involved when it comes to applying indigo to the yarn, and the chemistry that’s involved for application. Ironically, what we do in the denim industry is remove the indigo that took so many steps to apply.

“Several years ago, the Tencel denim team started to question why there so many steps to applying indigo to yarns. How can we lower our environmental impact?”

Produced in Austria, predominantly from beech wood derived from sustainably managed wood sources, this new offering has been designated BioPreferred by the United States Department of Agriculture.

Lenzing claims that as indigo is already added to the fibre, this creates a 99% water saving, uses 80% fewer chemicals and gives a 99% energy saving compared with traditional rope dyed indigo yarn. The colour retention is superior through dry and wet crocking and rubbing, wash-down effects be achieved using commercial laundry techniques and it remains fast for consumer washing, it said.

Among early launch collaborators is Adriano Goldschmied, founder of House of Gold. He said: “We are thrilled to collaborate and launch the ‘Seed of Joy’ concept capsule with woven, circular and sweater knit fabrics using Tencel Modal with Indigo technology, in partnership with mills such as Blue Diamond and In The Loop, as well as machinery producer Shima Seiki.”

Lenzing also worked with Cone Denim and Candiani on the innovation.

Günther Widler, head of technology in denim at chemicals group DyStar, said: “This specially commissioned indigo pigment is based on more than a decade of our working experiences on indigo synthesis in Germany.”

Speaking at Kingpins 24 Flash, Ms Carey added: “To us, this is indigo from the inside out.

“We open this to the market for further development, and I can’t wait to see what you come up with. You can blend, spin and layer other technologies. Thinking about indigo differently will lead us to think of new markets for denim.”

Image credit: Lenzing