Pakistan-based mill and manufacturer AGI Denim announced a deal with Panda Biotech, a US-based hemp processor, to form a global production partnership. Following the launch of its Cradle to Cradle gold certified HempX, AGI’s Henry Wong spoke about hemp as an “emerging champion”. “AGI will combine its manufacturing technologies with American-grown industrialised hemp processed at Panda’s state-of-the-art facilities,” he said.

Berke Aydemir, head of R&D at Naveena, presented an antimicrobial range made with technology from Swedish company Polygiene. Mr Aydemir said this can extend the life of the garment, saves energy and water and reduces carbon footprint.

Niklas Brosnan, marketing director at Polygiene, said the collaboration is part of a wider education and marketing push to convince consumers to wash clothes less frequently. He claimed there is a groundswell building: “We want to change the mindset from consumables to durables,” he said.

Following the launch of Lenzing’s Tencel with Indigo Technology (pictured) – where indigo pigment is applied directly to the fibres – global business development director Tricia Carey gave an update on the challenge it had laid down to mills to create interesting new fabrics and blends. 

“We all know there have been issues with shipping recently but we managed to get it out to customers and we are excited to see the results,” she said. Mill partners, which have either produced fabrics or are in the final stages of testing, include Cone, Candiani, Bossa, Orta, AFM, Soorty, Artistic Milliners, Blue Diamond and In the Loop.

The owner of Chinese mill Foison Textile, Sam Li, discussed the hardships of operating during the pandemic with Kingpins' Vivian Wang. He said the company had invested heavily in sustainability over recent years, including adding a photovoltaic panel system that supplies most of the factory’s energy, and that he is confident that 2021 will be a better year for textiles.

Jordan Nodarse, formerly of Boyish Jeans and now a designer at Turkish mill Bossa, introduced fabrics in the new collection, as part of a conversation with Simply Suzette’s Ani Wells. As well as the environmental benefits of hemp, it enables a focus on slow fashion by adding durability and the possibility of creating more of a circular mentality, he said of the new collection Hempy.

Xupple Stretch addresses the issue of inclusivity with extra stretch while still feeling like a denim fabric, and which could also help to minimise store returns. “It gives less concern about size and replaces that with comfort and positivity,” he said. Eco 3 “applies the full cycle of garment washing sustainability”: laser, eco stone, eflow and ozone technology and ecological chemicals. 

The team at Pakistani mill and manufacturer AFM discussed the latest technologies and how they are using their skill and experience to replicate effects and designs from conventional methods with recycled fibres, kinder chemicals and less water. A shredding and sorting facility, combined with the latest spinning machines, means they can achieve 100% post-industrial waste cotton fabrics, and blends with 40% post-consumer waste.

AFM creative director Ampelio Dal Lago made a range by matching shades of recycled cotton without adding any indigo. “Recycling cotton for us is the major mission because it can save the environment,” he said.

Other talks included a panel discussion on technologies; Denim Prive creative director Arsal Kassim being “interviewed” by his 10 year-old son on climate change, Lycra’s new sizing technology and Rudolf’s Laser Smoother. The in-depth videos will be available on Kingpins On Demand.

The final day of the show, April 22, has an Earth Day focus and will include discussions with Cone, DNM, Soorty, Lenzing and Iskur.

 

Image: courtesy of Lenzing