Biomimicry informs performance-centred collection
With biomimicry as a starting point, denim consultant Rowan Hunt, Pakistan-based mill Soorty and chemicals supplier Rudolf have created a spring-summer 2026 collection with performance built into both garment designs and fabrics.
In a bid to move away from traditional five-pocket designs, garments in the Roam collection include functional, workwear-inspired looks, with zipped pockets and jackets that fold into bags. “We went back to nature, with sportswear-meets-denim – we want to show people what is possible,” Rowan Hunt said.
The fabrics fall into three categories: EverFIT - high-stretch, minimum-growth denim with durable recovery that prevents bagging and sagging; Flexible Function - bi-stretch fabrics with both horizontal and vertical; and FiberX: all-weather fabrics with superior moisture management, breathability and comfort.
For washed-down looks, Rudolf’s sand-free Rucolase DWS - made using micro-abrasives from fruit stones – provided character without the need for pumice, while biobased softeners and ‘laser naturalisers’ helped to keep bright tones and avoid yellowing.
Bionic-Finish Eco, modelled on nature’s dendritic structures, provided durable water repellency. Similarly, advanced stain repellents and antimicrobial additives prolong the use of the garments by reducing the need for washing.
Mr Hunt said: “We have been obsessively selective about the components, choosing the most sustainable developments and elements, and blending fibres such as Tencel, or Coolmax from Lycra, to add softness or durability.
“Jeans could be designed for a hike, keeping you warm and, if it rains, dry. They will be self-cleaning, as the water washes off dust, and repel everyday stains like orange juice and coffee. This performance also encourages you to wash the jean less.”
The performance credentials have been verified, following testing in Germany.
Alberto De Conti, head of Rudolf Hub1922, added: “Functional finishes derived from renewable materials and biomimicry transform denim into truly sustainable innovation, merging nature’s wisdom with modern design.”
Soorty also created a collagen denim, where the collagen – a byproduct of the fish industry – is impregnated into a polyester or a viscose to create the branded Umorfil fibre, and blended with cotton. Designed for next-to-skin fits, where anti-irritation or skin-soothing properties are needed, the denim fabric can help wearers with sensitive skin or skin problems. “It is almost like a wellbeing jean,” added Mr Hunt.
