Kingpins toasts 10th anniversary in Amsterdam
The thick fog that enveloped Sugar City and caused travel disruption on the first morning of Kingpins Amsterdam burnt off into a stunning orange sunset as the trade show celebrated its 10th anniversary in the Dutch (and so-called denim) capital.
As business drew to a close, a Brazilian band led models around the halls, climbing the stairs to showcase some of the exhibitors’ latest fabrics and designs, while Kingpins founder Andrew Olah raised a glass to his team and the production company for their hard work and vision over the years.
New developments this time included fabrics made with Lycra’s bio-based elastane – replacing 70% of the raw material (BDO) with one derived from industrial (non-edible) corn. The first fabrics from mill partners - including Orta, AGI Denim, Artistic Milliners, Advance Denim, Seazon and Vicunha - were on display in the booths, to demonstrate how the bio-based product is a direct drop-in for the conventional product, although commercial volumes won’t be available until the middle of next year. In 2025, Lycra will switch one third of all its elastane to the bioderived product, following massive investment in the infrastructure (see the latest Inside Denim magazine for more on this story).
A big fabric theme at the show was the demand for softness, with many mills showcasing offerings with a very soft hand feel, either in 100% cotton constructions, with new yarn and weaving methods and softeners, or through blends with viscose or Tencel, creating fabrics that feel silky and light.
Chemicals company Soko introduced Authentica as what it describes as the first time it has created a real replacement for potassium permanganate. “For many years, chemical companies have been looking for replacements for PP, but they have been too acidic,” Luca Braschi, Soko’s marketing technology manager, said.
Officina39’s Zero PP also challenges the industry to move away from the traditional way of working. Officina’s system can combine several of its products to create vintage or distressed looks with a reduced environmental impact. The Italian company also highlighted several other innovative options for new denim looks.
Pakistan-based mill Soorty teamed up with chemicals group Rudolf for a collection with biomimicry at its core. These fabrics and garments include biobased treatments offering water repellency, as well as antimicrobial properties, and the range also includes a denim fabric imbued with collagen for next-to-skin benefits.
As part of The Boxes – displays at the entrance to the fair that showcase special projects or collaborations – Paolo Gnutti presented a vision combing art, denim and film. These garments and fabrics are inspired by his personal art collection and are brought to life in corresponding film clips, providing a glimpse into the inspiration for his latest collections for ISKO Luxury by PG.
Also in The Boxes, AGI Denim presented Ecovative, a mycelium-based garment drawing inspiration from the American rodeo.
Technology provider Tonello showed a collection of reimagined Italian workwear, demonstrating how fabrics and garments can be transformed, while Endrime’s Sadia Rafique and graphic design specialist Matt Duckett highlighted the versatility of Tonello's laser and washing options through Sake – “art with a purpose” – with eye-catching graphics and visuals lasered and finished on huge denim canvases. A clever addition to the project involved a QR code that brought the artworks 'to life' - enveloping the user in digital flowers and releasing digital butterflies... reflected by the real butterfly that was noted fluttering around the Blue Hall on Day 2.
Spanish laundry and laser technology provider Jeanologia celebrated the 25th anniversary of its pioneering laser technology with a display that blended the nostalgia of traditional denim with technological advances that have revolutionised the industry.
The Arvind-sponsored Indigo Art Museum this time brought Indigo Fragmented Crack, a bronze artwork by London-based Based Upon, over from its home in Ahmedabad, India, to demonstrate how indigo can be used to dye many materials, including metals.
A quieter second day meant more time for meetings, but also a reflection on what generally was suggested as a more positive mood for the industry.
Inside Denim will be reporting these stories in more detail, plus more, over the coming week.
